# Bearded dragons - advice much needed!



## TwyfordM (6 December 2015)

Always had a liking for these, and am considering getting one at some point in the future but I've never kept reptiles before so wouldn't have the foggiest idea on where to start etc so some advice is much needed before I even start to consider owning one! 

Went to an aquatic/reptile specialists this morning and I appreciate the dragons themselves and tank and accessories are going to be a big start up cost but any pointers on size/prices would be great 
Are they better alone/in pairs? 
What sort of things do they eat? 
Vet care? I'm guessing I would need a vet that specializes in reptiles, do they need vaccinations etc? Something I've never really thought about! 
I do have a bit of experience handling reptiles and snakes etc so not too worried about that part! 
Would I be better off with a male or female? 
What general day to day care do they need? 
How big do they get? As obviously need a tank to accommodate a fully grown one! 

Who knew reptiles could do the puppy dog eyes?!


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## TheMule (6 December 2015)

My dragon was very low maintenance. He ate crickets dusted in vitamin powder with the odd locust as a special treat. He also enjoyed various fruits/ vegetables- carrots, apples, spinach, dandelions, all cut into very small, thin pieces.
He never needed a vet, certainly no need for vaccinations unless yours is planning on attending dragon social functions?!


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## Equi (6 December 2015)

Firstly ill say i have never OWNED one, but my friend is a huge retile buff so all knowledge is passive from her i suppose cause anytime i went to her house it was like taking a trip to the jungle. 

If you get a small baby dragon, they can live in a smaller tank. I believe that it should be twice their length for them to be comfortable. I, would buy as large as i could afford because if you buy small then replace them, you end up spending more money and having to change it causes stress to little dragon. You can get ones fro 100ish or they can go up to the 500. You need heat lamps and timers on it, and good ventilation so they can breathe and safe features. 

Are they better alone/in pairs? It depends what you want. A male and female can be okay (but then babies potentially..) two females can be okay, but not two males.   

What sort of things do they eat? Crickets and meal worms make a large portion of their protein in take but salady type things too. Just make sure it is all washed thoroughly. 

Vet care? Should not need a vet too often, but a reptile one would be good to have the number for. 

Would I be better off with a male or female? I like the males, they are a little more...flamboyant.

What general day to day care do they need? Heat is a big thing, and hydration. Always make sure they get enough heat. My friend likes to put them into the bath now and then with a bit of luke warm water and they love to splash about, but literally a cm or so or they drown. 

How big do they get? As obviously need a tank to accommodate a fully grown one! They get quite large. Up to 50/60cm. Large enough that people put harnesses on them to walk them in the garden. 

Enjoy!!


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## springtime1331 (6 December 2015)

I don't know anything about them but my foster brother has one and is getting rid of it because it doesn't get on with his cat!


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## Equi (6 December 2015)

springtime1331 said:



			I don't know anything about them but my foster brother has one and is getting rid of it because it doesn't get on with his cat!
		
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......how much time exactly would a cat and a dragon be spending together?!


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## SO1 (6 December 2015)

My sister and her partner have reptiles they are quite low maintenance. She has Tony the bearded dragon and Sandra and Mark who are snakes.

Tony the bearded dragon lives in a big tank it I would say three times as long as him and it is high as well they have adapted it so it has one end with another smaller tank on the top so make it high enough to put a branch in there for him to climb on and he likes rocks to stand on as well. The heat is important and the heat lamp in on a timer and thermostat. He eat crickets and meal worms and vegetables. He does not do much weeing and runny poos so it easy to keep his tank clean and clean smelling. They take him out the tank and let him run around their living room which he enjoys and he is friendly and you can stroke him. You have to be very careful about taking them outside as apparently ants are dangerous to bearded dragons if they eat them they can die.


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## springtime1331 (6 December 2015)

Well yes, quite! Apparently they liked to let the dragon out every evening and it liked fuss and roaming around, then they got the cat and the dragon goes for the cat and they don't think its fair that the dragon can't be out and about all evening. They also have a hamster, I'm not sure if that roams around all evening dodging the cat and the dragon, they seems to have a knack of buying pets which don't exactly work well together!


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## chillipup (6 December 2015)

Try www.beardeddragon.org[/url] (you may have to put this in your search engine or google it) lots of info and forum...It may also be useful, nearer the time,( if and when you decide to get one) checking in with your local rescue/animal centres. They may have one/a pair looking for a new home or they may be able to put you in touch with a reptile specialist who takes them in for fostering /rehoming. You'd be surprised how many get handed in to animal shelters...or are advertised on the likes of gumtree...I just think many people lose interest in them after the novelty wears off. Good luck.


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## Equi (6 December 2015)

springtime1331 said:



			Well yes, quite! Apparently they liked to let the dragon out every evening and it liked fuss and roaming around, then they got the cat and the dragon goes for the cat and they don't think its fair that the dragon can't be out and about all evening. They also have a hamster, I'm not sure if that roams around all evening dodging the cat and the dragon, they seems to have a knack of buying pets which don't exactly work well together!
		
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Well it wouldn't really would it, its a predator. Can't they chuck the cat in the kitchen for a while lol


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## TwyfordM (7 December 2015)

Thanks everyone, its the actual keeping them as pets experience thing I need to hear, I did notice there are a fair few older ones advertised for rehoming and I think that's the route I would go down first rather than get a baby. They sound fairly idiot proof then, I've kept lots of different pets, have a cat and dog currently but they could be kept separate if they don't get along. I've had a rabbit and a greyhound together before so I think I should be ok!  

I've never rehomed an animal before, its a commitment I make for that animals life, hence wanting to be sure I can handle/meet their needs before taking them on


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## adamntitch (7 December 2015)

Biggest tank you can afford best alone as hard to sex as baby's join reptile forums UK and also by off a breeder can get baby's or as low as £10 and shop around for supplies much cheaper also have a look at Rankins and painted dragons
Not as common but similar to bds x


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## Embo (7 December 2015)

Hello, long time beardy owner, here!

A good, knowledgeable pet shop is your first bet - many pet shops that stock reptiles do not have the first clue on care. So do as much research as you can beforehand, arm yourself with knowledge.

If you can, go for a sub-adult, rather than a baby. Baby beardies have a very high mortality rate (and very tricky to feed), so it really is worth going for a slightly bigger/older specimen.

Viv wants to be a MINIMUM of 4x2x2ft. Height is less important than length, although many beardies enjoy to climb a little, so do provide 'platforms' of varying heights - but not too high are they are clumsy and will fall! Get a viv as large as you can afford, but for the sanity and health of beardies, a 4x2x2 foot viv really is the smallest you should go. They can be very active so need plenty of room to hunt and move around.

Lighting - they need a heat lamp AND a UV lamp. They are from Australia, and therefore diurnal, so heat and UV light is very important! As important is that they have minimum 8 hours or darkness and low heat, so NO coloured bulbs that are left on all night. They take themselves off to bed at night lol. It can get very cold in the Aus outback at night, so no additional heat is needed once the lamps are off. Let the temperature drop. Heat wants to be between 32-38 celcius during the day (get a laser heat sensor, best and most accurate way to check temps). Some like it warmer, some prefer a little cooler, but 32 is minimum daytime. A reflector for your UV strip is very beneficial to get the most out of the bulb. This wants to be replaced every 3-6 months.

Habitat - semi-arid, so more rough ground than sand. I use rough textured bathroom/kitchen tiles with a bit of calcium sand to fill in the gaps. This will help keep claws in good (worn!) condition. Provide some logs and other things to climb on. I have a big wooden log and cork bark log. Plus some large rocks for basking. They do not necessarily need a 'hide' as this encourages prolonged brumation, which should be avoided. Whilst providing enrichment, take care not to over-crowd the viv. Fake plants provide nothing for the reptile, but it does make it look nicer - but these should be kept to a minimum to avoid accidental ingestion.

Set up - heat lamp situated on one side, so you have a 'hot' end and a 'cool' end. Under the heat lamp should be a basking spot. I use 2 large rocks to provide varying levels so the dragon can self-regulate their temperature - choosing a lower or higher spot on the rocks depending on how much heat they require at the time. UV light (with reflector) at the back, near the roof, spanning the whole length of the viv (the tubes come in varying sizes). 

Food - crickets and locusts are your basic food. Locusts are easier to handle, so I prefer these. But I will mainly feed dubia roaches as they provide highter protein content with low levels of indigestible chitin (hard, outer shell of the insect). Mealworms and Morio worms are OK as a treat, but are quite fattening and high levels of chitin, so not to be fed as a staple. A dusting twice per week with calcium and twice per week with Nutrobal is sufficient. Salads and some fruits/veg should be offered, but not all beardies eat their greens! You can find lists online if you Google. Dandelions are an apparent favourite (flower and leaves), but mine aren't big on veg. 

Beardies in the wild will also eat small lizards and mammals if they come across them, so you can also offer the occasional pinky (baby mouse/rat). Probably the best food source for them as all good protein and calcium, but they can be hit or miss, so should only be offered occasionally.

As for how much to feed, some are total gluttons and will eat whatever you offer. Some are picky and more reserved with food. A good starting point point for an adult is 3-5 XL or adult locusts twice per day, with salad every other day (in a bowl, taken out at the end of the day). Some will eat more or less. I only feed mine every other day as he won't take food every day. Sometimes he will only eat once per week. You will work out what is normal for your beardie. It really varies sometimes.  

Co-habiting can be tricky as bearded dragons are very territorial and keeping two will almost always ends up in fighting/aggressive behaviour. It is advisable to only have ONE per set-up. By all means, attempt keep a pair (M/F or F/F ONLY, males WILL fight to kill), but you will need to be prepared to separate them and house them individually should the worst happen. You may of course be lucky, but this is not common. 

Not a huge amount of difference in keeping males or females care-wise, but males are less maintenance. A male may 'display' more (mine takes to the top of his log every day around mid-morning and head-bobs, plus lots beard colour changes) and females will lay eggs, fertilised or not. You will need to keep an eye on a female and provide a laying tray (damp sand) for her to lay her eggs every few weeks. 

As pets, they are great. Once you fully understand their needs and develop routine, they are relatively easy to keep. Put their lights on a timer and all you will need to really do is feed and clean up mess. They can become very tame and benefit from being allowed out to explore (good exercise). But remember, they are not mammals and feel no desire to be held, stroked or have any human contact - so provided their needs are met, they are more than happy living in their vivs. 

So sorry, this is a massive wall of text!! Hope you find it useful, feel free to PM me if you need any more info 

From Emma and Arnie (the bearded dragon!)


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## Nudibranch (11 December 2015)

Lots of good advice there ^
Just wanted to add, they really are great pets. Mine used to come and bask in front of the log burner, or cuddle up to the dog (we only had the one, a totally soft dachshund, then). I used to take him out in the garden on sunny days so he could browse the flower beds. Nasturtium, hibiscus and dandelion flowers were his favourite. One day he escaped when someone left the conservatory door open...searched high and low, no sign. Then 3 weeks later I stumbled across him on the muck heap! Total survivor.
I'd love another but now we have the saluki I wouldn't dare.


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