# Leather Conditioner Recipe



## cremedemonthe (7 December 2014)

I get asked on UK horse forums how to make and care for veg tanned saddlery leather and have been asked on here a few times recently so resurrecting this old post, hope it helps.

Firstly a bit about oiling and veg tanned leather.
NEATSFOOT OIL, is a popular choice to condition modern hides BUT although modern neatsfoot oil is still made from cattle-based products, it has a tendency to speed oxidation of the leather. 
If mineral oil or other petroleum-based material is added, the product may be called "neatsfoot oil compound".
Some brands have also been shown to be adulterated with rapeseed oil, soya oil, and other oils.
The addition of mineral oils may lead to more rapid decay of non-synthetic stitching or speed breakdown of the leather itself
AVOID!
You won't always see the damage to the fibres of the hide with the naked eyes and think it's ok to use it but you get down to the cellular level and look at the fibres under a microscope of hide oiled with neatsfoot and you'll see what I mean.

LEATHER CONDITIONER:
All veg tanned leather will lose moisture everyday whether it's used or not, best thing to condition leather to make it last is any product without any silicone or preservatives (that some modern leather conditioners contain)  includes, tallow, bees wax and lanolin or all 3 if possible.
I make my own leather conditioner simply because I use so much veg tan in my trade, I have hides that I have hand dressed that are at least 25 years old when I first trained and are as good as new.

Home made leather conditioner (traditional) recipe:
My own recipe is a secret one I have perfected over many years but what I will give you a basic one, get hold of any beef fat (I make my own tallow but you can use beef dripping), beeswax and some lard (pig fat, again I make my own), do roughly a 50% beef fat, 25 % beeswax and 25% lard,gently melt it down on a low heat and mix it thoroughly.
Let it set, when you use it if it has melted because the weather is warm, shove it in the fridge for 10-20 mins to get the right consistency.
This is real old fashioned English Saddler's grease



BEST WAY OF USING IT:
Remember any moisture you add to leather whether water or leather conditioner can darken leather down, so if in doubt try a test area first.
When conditioning the clean  leather, wipe it with a warm wet cloth (just warm water) and whilst still wet/damp get some conditioner on your fingers, the heat from your hand and your fingers are by far the best way to apply any conditioner, it's a mucky job but forget sponges, cloths or brushes at this stage!
By putting the water on first it acts as a medium that aids the penetration of the fats right into the fibres of the hide.
The flesh side of the hide is far more porous than the grain side,try to imagine a funnel shape to the fibre with the wide open mouth end as the flesh side (flesh side is the underside where the flesh used to be) so allow a little more conditioner that side, you don't need alot anyway as it goes a long way.
Rub it all over and massage it into the hide, then leave it to dry naturally in a dry room and not in any sunlight or near artifcial heat,it can take 3 days or more to dry out and be asorbed into the hide, depends how much you use!
When it's dry, then get a lint free cloth, I use old bath towels cut up, the bobbly bits of the towelling act like a polishing stone and this is where it gets hard work, you need alot of elbow grease.
It's basically good old fashioned saddler's grease which most saddlers, leatherworkers and cobblers would have made years ago and none of the commercially made stuff you get today.
The idea is to rub the hide fast and fairly hard, not too hard to scratch it, the friction heats up any fats you have left on the hide (the white stuff) and gets it further into the fibres to add to the already absorbed conditioner that you put on it a few days before.
Lastly, this where it looks like I am contradicting myself about saying not to use oil on hides but I do, I use cod liver oil (NEVER neatsfoot as explained at the beginning)and wring a cotton cloth out in the cod liver oil so almost dry and put a very LIGHT film on both sides of the hide,wipe off any surplus and give it another gentle polish to buff it up with a bit of clean, dry bath towel, you are merely giving it a final dressing with the cod liver oil NOT conditioning or feeding it, it also gives the hide back it's leathery smell, a good trick of the trade to know if you sell second hand saddlery or leather, people love the smell of leather!
When completed you should have hide that is fairly stuffed full of fat and wax which is what it was designed for and it will have a nice bloom/shine to it, it should feel slightly moist/clammy but not sticky, if it is sticky you need to rub it more, it should feel heavier too.The conditioning will act as a rain barrier to keep the wet out.
Sorry for long post but I think it's worth mentioning all this.
Happy polishing!

Oz 

Saddler in Surrey


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## twiggy2 (7 December 2014)

Brilliant Oz thanx


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## Reacher (7 December 2014)

cremedemonthe said:



			I get asked on UK horse forums how to make and care for veg tanned saddlery leather and have been asked on here a few times recently so resurrecting this old post, hope it helps.

Firstly a bit about oiling and veg tanned leather.
NEATSFOOT OIL, is a popular choice to condition modern hides BUT although modern neatsfoot oil is still made from cattle-based products, it has a tendency to speed oxidation of the leather. 
If mineral oil or other petroleum-based material is added, the product may be called "neatsfoot oil compound".
Some brands have also been shown to be adulterated with rapeseed oil, soya oil, and other oils.
The addition of mineral oils may lead to more rapid decay of non-synthetic stitching or speed breakdown of the leather itself
AVOID!
You won't always see the damage to the fibres of the hide with the naked eyes and think it's ok to use it but you get down to the cellular level and look at the fibres under a microscope of hide oiled with neatsfoot and you'll see what I mean.

LEATHER CONDITIONER:
All veg tanned leather will lose moisture everyday whether it's used or not, best thing to condition leather to make it last is any product without any silicone or preservatives (that some modern leather conditioners contain)  includes, tallow, bees wax and lanolin or all 3 if possible.
I make my own leather conditioner simply because I use so much veg tan in my trade, I have hides that I have hand dressed that are at least 25 years old when I first trained and are as good as new.

Home made leather conditioner (traditional) recipe:
My own recipe is a secret one I have perfected over many years but what I will give you a basic one, get hold of any beef fat (I make my own tallow but you can use beef dripping), beeswax and some lard (pig fat, again I make my own), do roughly a 50% beef fat, 25 % beeswax and 25% lard,gently melt it down on a low heat and mix it thoroughly.
Let it set, when you use it if it has melted because the weather is warm, shove it in the fridge for 10-20 mins to get the right consistency.
This is real old fashioned English Saddler's grease



BEST WAY OF USING IT:
Remember any moisture you add to leather whether water or leather conditioner can darken leather down, so if in doubt try a test area first.
When conditioning the clean  leather, wipe it with a warm wet cloth (just warm water) and whilst still wet/damp get some conditioner on your fingers, the heat from your hand and your fingers are by far the best way to apply any conditioner, it's a mucky job but forget sponges, cloths or brushes at this stage!
By putting the water on first it acts as a medium that aids the penetration of the fats right into the fibres of the hide.
The flesh side of the hide is far more porous than the grain side,try to imagine a funnel shape to the fibre with the wide open mouth end as the flesh side (flesh side is the underside where the flesh used to be) so allow a little more conditioner that side, you don't need alot anyway as it goes a long way.
Rub it all over and massage it into the hide, then leave it to dry naturally in a dry room and not in any sunlight or near artifcial heat,it can take 3 days or more to dry out and be asorbed into the hide, depends how much you use!
When it's dry, then get a lint free cloth, I use old bath towels cut up, the bobbly bits of the towelling act like a polishing stone and this is where it gets hard work, you need alot of elbow grease.
It's basically good old fashioned saddler's grease which most saddlers, leatherworkers and cobblers would have made years ago and none of the commercially made stuff you get today.
The idea is to rub the hide fast and fairly hard, not too hard to scratch it, the friction heats up any fats you have left on the hide (the white stuff) and gets it further into the fibres to add to the already absorbed conditioner that you put on it a few days before.
Lastly, this where it looks like I am contradicting myself about saying not to use oil on hides but I do, I use cod liver oil (NEVER neatsfoot as explained at the beginning)and wring a cotton cloth out in the cod liver oil so almost dry and put a very LIGHT film on both sides of the hide,wipe off any surplus and give it another gentle polish to buff it up with a bit of clean, dry bath towel, you are merely giving it a final dressing with the cod liver oil NOT conditioning or feeding it, it also gives the hide back it's leathery smell, a good trick of the trade to know if you sell second hand saddlery or leather, people love the smell of leather!
When completed you should have hide that is fairly stuffed full of fat and wax which is what it was designed for and it will have a nice bloom/shine to it, it should feel slightly moist/clammy but not sticky, if it is sticky you need to rub it more, it should feel heavier too.The conditioning will act as a rain barrier to keep the wet out.
Sorry for long post but I think it's worth mentioning all this.
Happy polishing!

Oz 

Saddler in Surrey
		
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Thanks very much Oz
Ps I have a brand  new saddle and went out and bought a tin of effex leder balsam- yay or neigh ?


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## mirage (7 December 2014)

That is really useful,thanks very much.


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## cobgoblin (7 December 2014)

Thanks Oz!
But what should I use on buffalo leather? I'm told it is too porous for anything too waxy or fatty - I've just been using saddle soap.


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## Identityincrisis (7 December 2014)

Very interesting,  thanks.  I'm not sure what my wow saddle is made of but buffalo rings a bell.  I currently use the effex, also, and would be interested in your opinion on this


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## PorkChop (7 December 2014)

Thank you so much for posting this - will be making some asap


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## cremedemonthe (7 December 2014)

For the products you mention and any others on the market, the key is to find out what the ingredients are if possible, it's not always marked on the tins/tubs unfortunately though.
Any product with lots of silicones, preservatives, spirits or waxes (other than beeswax) is not the best to use on leather. Some of these ingredients seal the fibres too much which won't allow any more moisture in, prime example is putting boot polish on bridles, it seals the leather so no more moisture can be added the leather eventually breaks.
Buffalo is quite grainy and I have never added any conditioner to it as it stayed pretty supply without any.
It can stretch double it's length anyway without any conditioner!
It is often chrome tanned too which doesn't usually accept or need leather conditioner very well, clothes, sofas and car seats, leather straps on horse rugs (most are now nylon though) are usually made from chrome leather, it's grey in appearance if you cut through it and it's a harder wearing, low maintenance leather.


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## Reacher (8 December 2014)

cremedemonthe said:



			For the products you mention and any others on the market, the key is to find out what the ingredients are if possible, it's not always marked on the tins/tubs unfortunately though.
Any product with lots of silicones, preservatives, spirits or waxes (other than beeswax) is not the best to use on leather. Some of these ingredients seal the fibres too much which won't allow any more moisture in, prime example is putting boot polish on bridles, it seals the leather so no more moisture can be added the leather eventually breaks.
Buffalo is quite grainy and I have never added any conditioner to it as it stayed pretty supply without any.
It can stretch double it's length anyway without any conditioner!
It is often chrome tanned too which doesn't usually accept or need leather conditioner very well, clothes, sofas and car seats, leather straps on horse rugs (most are now nylon though) are usually made from chrome leather, it's grey in appearance if you cut through it and it's a harder wearing, low maintenance leather.
		
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Thank for the reply, I have emailed effax for their ingredients and will post their response.


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## cremedemonthe (8 December 2014)

Reacher said:



			Thank for the reply, I have emailed effax for their ingredients and will post their response.
		
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Be interested to see them.


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## Reacher (14 December 2014)

I completed the online form on the effax website, where it says they are happy to give you info about their ingredients if asked (so why aren't they listed on the website?!).  But so far no reply!
Meanwhile I'm off to return the tin unopened and to buy lard, beeswax and beef fat!


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## cremedemonthe (14 December 2014)

Reacher said:



			I completed the online form on the effax website, where it says they are happy to give you info about their ingredients if asked (so why aren't they listed on the website?!).  But so far no reply!
Meanwhile I'm off to return the tin unopened and to buy lard, beeswax and beef fat!
		
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lol, if you need any more help let me know,it's a lot cheaper to make your own! 
Wonder if they will ever tell you what's in theirs, Oz


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## Reacher (14 December 2014)

cremedemonthe said:



			lol, if you need any more help let me know,it's a lot cheaper to make your own! 
Wonder if they will ever tell you what's in theirs, Oz
		
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Well, not wanting to let them off the hook too easily I have resubmitted the form...

Thanks very much.  Its nice to think my new harry dabbs wont have any nasties applied to it, and I agree about the cost!


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## pennyturner (15 December 2014)

We had an excess of home-made lard already (killed a very fat old pig earlier this year), and plenty of beeswax, so I sent hubby off to get dripping, and it's sat warming on the stove now.

Thanks Oz.


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## cremedemonthe (15 December 2014)

pennyturner said:



			We had an excess of home-made lard already (killed a very fat old pig earlier this year), and plenty of beeswax, so I sent hubby off to get dripping, and it's sat warming on the stove now.

Thanks Oz.
		
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Also makes your hands very soft, keep getting women who have made some tell me!


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## cremedemonthe (18 December 2014)

pennyturner said:



			We had an excess of home-made lard already (killed a very fat old pig earlier this year), and plenty of beeswax, so I sent hubby off to get dripping, and it's sat warming on the stove now.

Thanks Oz.
		
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Have you tried it yet?


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## pennyturner (19 December 2014)

I have indeed.  It's pretty much solid at room temperature, so not as easy to apply as a proprietary conditioner - presumably that's why some folk add olive oil to the recipe.  However, with a fair bit of elbow grease my hands warmed up, and it went on well, being particularly good for buckles, where you can really get it in around the tongue.  

I used it on an older saddle, bridle in reasonable condition, but not new, and stirrup leathers which are new, but of the 'how do they make them for £5' variety.  All came up lovely.  The big surprise was the stirrup leathers, which weren't bad for the price, but now feel like enlgish leathers at four times the price!

Good exercise, (I wouldn't want to do more than one lot of tack), really does the job, and my saddle now smells faintly of beeswax.


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## cremedemonthe (19 December 2014)

pennyturner said:



			I have indeed.  It's pretty much solid at room temperature, so not as easy to apply as a proprietary conditioner - presumably that's why some folk add olive oil to the recipe.  However, with a fair bit of elbow grease my hands warmed up, and it went on well, being particularly good for buckles, where you can really get it in around the tongue.  

I used it on an older saddle, bridle in reasonable condition, but not new, and stirrup leathers which are new, but of the 'how do they make them for £5' variety.  All came up lovely.  The big surprise was the stirrup leathers, which weren't bad for the price, but now feel like enlgish leathers at four times the price!

Good exercise, (I wouldn't want to do more than one lot of tack), really does the job, and my saddle now smells faintly of beeswax.
		
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Good glad you got on ok with it, secret is dig it out of the tub with your fingers and manipulate in your hands to warm it up and it melts enough to apply, it's a real hands on product but completely natural and how the country folk of yesteryear would have softened and fed their leather. Your hands will be soft too!
Oz

PS you said you wouldn't want to do more than one lot of tack, a "friend" of mine was visiting and brought her English singles harness and 2 extra bridles, I had to clean and treat them all!
THEN I went through my workshop hides, all 25 of them, was absolutely knackered at the end but worth it!


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## PolarSkye (19 December 2014)

Oz - thank you very much for posting this . . . after Christmas will try and make up a batch of your homemade "secret sauce" . . . I'll let you know how I get on.

P


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## cremedemonthe (19 December 2014)

PolarExpress said:



			Oz - thank you very much for posting this . . . after Christmas will try and make up a batch of your homemade "secret sauce" . . . I'll let you know how I get on.

P
		
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Welcome and do let me know how it goes, save an old toothbrush, it helps get in the stitching and around the buckles.As Pennturner said, it IS hard work and good exercise but you have the feel good factor when you see the end result and soft hands!


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## quizzie (19 December 2014)

Reacher said:



			Thank for the reply, I have emailed effax for their ingredients and will post their response.
		
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I asked the same question a while ago, after a horse had a reaction to a different saddle cleaner/soap, & they sent me this:


Ingredients of Effax Lederbalsam:

DESTILLATES (PETROLEUM) HYDROTREATED LIGHT PARAFFINIC
PETROLATUM
SOLVENT-REFINED LIGHT AND HEAVY PARAFFINICS
PARAFFIN
HYDROGENATED MICROCRYSTALLINE WAX
CERA MICROCRISTALLINA
LANOLIN
PERSEA GRATISSIMA (AVOCADO) OIL
CERA ALBA
PARFUM
CI 12700


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## cremedemonthe (19 December 2014)

quizzie said:



			I asked the same question a while ago, after a horse had a reaction to a different saddle cleaner/soap, & they sent me this:


Ingredients of Effax Lederbalsam:

DESTILLATES (PETROLEUM) HYDROTREATED LIGHT PARAFFINIC
PETROLATUM
SOLVENT-REFINED LIGHT AND HEAVY PARAFFINICS
PARAFFIN
HYDROGENATED MICROCRYSTALLINE WAX
CERA MICROCRISTALLINA
LANOLIN
PERSEA GRATISSIMA (AVOCADO) OIL
CERA ALBA
PARFUM
CI 12700
		
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ARGH!!!!!!
I rest my case about commercially made products, thanks for posting this Quizzie, think what some but not all of ingredients can do to your leather, your hands and your horse.
Oz


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## pennyturner (19 December 2014)

quizzie said:



			I asked the same question a while ago, after a horse had a reaction to a different saddle cleaner/soap, & they sent me this:


Ingredients of Effax Lederbalsam:

DESTILLATES (PETROLEUM) HYDROTREATED LIGHT PARAFFINIC
PETROLATUM
SOLVENT-REFINED LIGHT AND HEAVY PARAFFINICS
PARAFFIN
HYDROGENATED MICROCRYSTALLINE WAX
CERA MICROCRISTALLINA
LANOLIN
PERSEA GRATISSIMA (AVOCADO) OIL
CERA ALBA
PARFUM
CI 12700
		
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EEK!  And I thought that was one of the good ones! 
Sticking with Oz's patented piggy/beefy/bee grease from now on


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## cremedemonthe (19 December 2014)

pennyturner said:



			EEK!  And I thought that was one of the good ones! 
Sticking with Oz's patented piggy/beefy/bee grease from now on 

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lol, never heard it called that before.
You know what,there's really no need to have so many chemicals and spirits in these sort of commercially made products, they use them I believe to preserve and  perfume the leather conditioner as well as to make it easier to apply but with a little patience and warm hands it's easy to apply mine, mine doesn't need perfume, the smell of the  beeswax usually comes through and if you dress the leather afterwards with a tiny but of cod liver oil you'll get a nice smell of English leather back again.The worst it can smell if all else fails is like a chippy!
Mine doesn't go rancid or bad, I have a large tub in my workshop that's probably a couple of years old and sits in there in the Summer heat and it's still fine to use.
Happy Christmas all, Oz


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## Reacher (21 December 2014)

Thanks very much for posting _ I emailed effax twice and got no reply.

Ps have made and applied Oz's recipe - just waiting for it to dry!



quizzie said:



			I asked the same question a while ago, after a horse had a reaction to a different saddile cleaner/soap, & they sent me this:


Ingredients of Effax Lederbalsam:

DESTILLATES (PETROLEUM) HYDROTREATED LIGHT PARAFFINIC
PETROLATUM
SOLVENT-REFINED LIGHT AND HEAVY PARAFFINICS
PARAFFIN
HYDROGENATED MICROCRYSTALLINE WAX
CERA MICROCRISTALLINA
LANOLIN
PERSEA GRATISSIMA (AVOCADO) OIL
CERA ALBA
PARFUM
CI 12700
		
Click to expand...


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## cremedemonthe (21 December 2014)

Reacher said:



			Thanks very much for posting _ I emailed effax twice and got no reply.

Ps have made and applied Oz's recipe - just waiting for it to dry!
		
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As fast as I make my own up people buy it, can't keep up with it!
Oz


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## twiggy2 (21 December 2014)

I am struggling to obtain bees wax without fighting the christmas crowds


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## cremedemonthe (21 December 2014)

twiggy2 said:



			I am struggling to obtain bees wax without fighting the christmas crowds
		
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I have a friend with bee hives, get loads from them which I hoard. I also use bees wax to hand wax my threads for hand stitching so need a fair amount.
See if you have any local bee keepers, look on here and ask http://www.bbka.org.uk/about/local_associations/find_an_association.php


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## twiggy2 (21 December 2014)

Thank You Oz will have a look


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## pennyturner (21 December 2014)

twiggy2 said:



			I am struggling to obtain bees wax without fighting the christmas crowds
		
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Ebay - roughly £10 / lb.


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## twiggy2 (4 January 2015)

ordered it a while ago still waiting for it to arrive-bees wax that is


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## Tern (4 January 2015)

Anyone struggling to find Beef Fat/Tallow - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tallow-BE..._Metalworking_Supplies_ET&hash=item2c93a43c6c

Oz, silly question but where can I get lard from? (Vegetarian so don't really fancy touching this stuff in first place but if it is as good as you say then.. )


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## cremedemonthe (4 January 2015)

Tern said:



			Anyone struggling to find Beef Fat/Tallow - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tallow-BE..._Metalworking_Supplies_ET&hash=item2c93a43c6c

Oz, silly question but where can I get lard from? (Vegetarian so don't really fancy touching this stuff in first place but if it is as good as you say then.. )
		
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I am veggie too, have been since 1983 it won't bite you!
Tescos sell lard, where the butter is.
Waitrose sell Britannia beef fat (dripping) lot cheaper than ebay beef fat/tallow, you can use that for the beef fat, let me know how you get on or if you have any problems, Oz


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## FlyingCircus (4 January 2015)

Hm, not sure if I went wrong somewhere but I used a combo of beeswax, lard and beef dripping and it is now all collecting in my stitching on the tack D:

I put minimal amounts on twice, so it had two layers of the stuff but I adopted the "little bit goes a long way" stance and yet still seem to have a lot of build up in the stitching, which I don't usually get with my other conditioner. 

Again, not sure if I'm doing it massively wrong or something :')


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## cremedemonthe (4 January 2015)

No it does go in the stitching which is to your advantage as it will help waterproof it, you need to use an old toothbrush to work it into the leather and stitches. As you brush it the motion melts the fats and the white gloop you can see eventually disappears, it is hard work I did warn you but it really gets the fats in to the fibres of the hide.
Someone has just bought some of mine and I haven't any made up so I know what I will be doing tomorrow!
Oz


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## Tern (4 January 2015)

cremedemonthe said:



			I am veggie too, have been since 1983 it won't bite you!
Tescos sell lard, where the butter is.
Waitrose sell Britannia beef fat (dripping) lot cheaper than ebay beef fat/tallow, you can use that for the beef fat, let me know how you get on or if you have any problems, Oz
		
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I know it won't bite but I don't like the thought. 

Thank you, was very silly questions!


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## cremedemonthe (4 January 2015)

Tern said:



			I know it won't bite but I don't like the thought. 

Thank you, was very silly questions!
		
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lol, no worries I was teasing. 
Let me know how you get on with it and remember "elbow grease" is the biggest ingredient! 
Oz


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## NZJenny (4 January 2015)

I wonder if that is what Effex mean when they list "Train oil".  

And what is pig oil please?


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## cremedemonthe (4 January 2015)

NZJenny said:



			I wonder if that is what Effex mean when they list "Train oil".  

And what is pig oil please?
		
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By pig oil do you mean pig fat?
It's called lard, the oil and fats are drained off pork and refined


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## pansymouse (5 January 2015)

Pig oil you buy in tack shops is a mineral oil and not the right thing for the recipe.  It is however an extremely good way of repelling mud form legs, tails etc. in the winter (just spray it on).


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## fawaz (5 January 2015)

I use Renapur which is all natural and contains no preservatives. It does a wonderful job and my gear all looks like New even though it's all 10+ years old. It contains Beeswax, Carnauba wax, Jojoba oil and Avocado oil.... Could this bee a good vegetarian alternative to your recipe Oz?


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## cornbrodolly (5 January 2015)

Our rather damp tackroom makes all tack mouldy,even in the summer  - would this recipe help stop the mould developing?


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## Greylegs (5 January 2015)

Just picked up this thread because my tack is in a woeful state after the Christmas break and needs a really good going over!! Might make some up as Oz suggested.

Got to go shopping in a minute ... will have to see if Morrisons sell beef dripping ....!! Oz ... if you ever get fed up with saddlery, you could go into business selling this instead ....


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## Greylegs (5 January 2015)

Sorry - Numpty question ... just going out to buy ingredients ... 

I presume the quantities are by weight? Thanks for posting ...


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## cremedemonthe (5 January 2015)

Thank you Pansymouse for explaining that .

fawaz-it might be a good alternative by the sounds of it!

cornbrodolly-when I have cleaned others dirty tack and treated it with my conditioner, they have  taken it home and  kept it in an unheated tack room, it did not develop any mould but I would be daft to claim that would happen with all tack.If the spores are there they may grow, white vinegar will kill the spores.

Mrs Santa- I already do sell this stuff, but a variation of it, on my website, I have run out and have to make some more up today.
Quantities are in percentage it's up to you what weights /amounts you use and work it out.

Oz


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## Identityincrisis (5 January 2015)

Cremedemonthe please can you let me know your website address?


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## Penny Eater (5 January 2015)

Identityincrisis said:



			Cremedemonthe please can you let me know your website address?
		
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It's http://www.unicornleather.co.uk/leather_conditioner.html for Oz's Leather Conditioner. I was too lazy to make my own!


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## cremedemonthe (5 January 2015)

Penny Eater said:



			It's http://www.unicornleather.co.uk/leather_conditioner.html for Oz's Leather Conditioner. I was too lazy to make my own!
		
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Just made up 2 more tubs, I need some myself to use!


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## twiggy2 (5 January 2015)

mine is made and cooling for use tomorrow,I have made some for a friend too


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## cremedemonthe (5 January 2015)

twiggy2 said:



			mine is made and cooling for use tomorrow,I have made some for a friend too
		
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Keep dogs and cats away from it, they will eat it!
Let me know how you get on with it, it's hard work but worth it, I have 2 tubs here cooling down too, Oz


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## twiggy2 (5 January 2015)

cremedemonthe said:



			Keep dogs and cats away from it, they will eat it!
Let me know how you get on with it, it's hard work but worth it, I have 2 tubs here cooling down too, Oz
		
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yes it is in the kitchen and no animals have free access there-eating something like this can trigger pancreatitis which can be fatal.


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## Identityincrisis (6 January 2015)

Penny Eater said:



			It's http://www.unicornleather.co.uk/leather_conditioner.html for Oz's Leather Conditioner. I was too lazy to make my own!
		
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Great! Thanks, I wouldn't know where to get the ingredients so I'll buy from here


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## Greylegs (6 January 2015)

Right ... so lard and beef fat in fridge awaiting arrival of some beeswax, ordered from Amazon (where else!!). Looking forward to trying it out.


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## cremedemonthe (6 January 2015)

Mrs Santa said:



			Right ... so lard and beef fat in fridge awaiting arrival of some beeswax, ordered from Amazon (where else!!). Looking forward to trying it out.
		
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Elbow grease


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## NariNags (6 January 2015)

if your tack has mould is it worth rubbing with white vinegar to remove the spores then continue as above ( well several pages )


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## TT55 (6 January 2015)

Hi Oz, is this good to use on brand new leather?


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## Greylegs (6 January 2015)

cremedemonthe said:



			Elbow grease 

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&#128516;&#128516;&#128516; do they sell that at the supermarket too? &#128521;&#128521;&#128521;


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## cremedemonthe (6 January 2015)

TT55 said:



			Hi Oz, is this good to use on brand new leather?
		
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Yes


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## cremedemonthe (6 January 2015)

Mrs Santa said:



			&#55357;&#56836;&#55357;&#56836;&#55357;&#56836; do they sell that at the supermarket too? &#55357;&#56841;&#55357;&#56841;&#55357;&#56841;
		
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yes, there's a buy one get one free offer on in Tesco's at the mo


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## Lyle (7 January 2015)

Wow! Thank you Oz, I made a batch of this up today. I was so pleased with how cheaply I could get the ingredients and with how much it produced. I've done my saddle, 2 bridles and a few other sundries. All the bridle work has come up superb, even the cheap noseband! My saddle was a little trickier, being double grain leather, there's a bit of white in the grain. I'll have a go with a tooth brush tomorrow.

Quick question, what do you recommend using as a quick wipe over to remove dust/mud to make tack presentable, without having to do a proper condition?


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## twiggy2 (7 January 2015)

saddle and bridle have come up lovely, Thanks Oz

Will be doing boots and chaps today, I have nice soft hands today too.


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## cremedemonthe (7 January 2015)

Lyle said:



			Wow! Thank you Oz, I made a batch of this up today. I was so pleased with how cheaply I could get the ingredients and with how much it produced. I've done my saddle, 2 bridles and a few other sundries. All the bridle work has come up superb, even the cheap noseband! My saddle was a little trickier, being double grain leather, there's a bit of white in the grain. I'll have a go with a tooth brush tomorrow.

Quick question, what do you recommend using as a quick wipe over to remove dust/mud to make tack presentable, without having to do a proper condition?
		
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I use only a mild solution of fairy liquid (washing up liquid) and warm water, then rinse with a wet cloth with just warm water on.
Just keep an eye on the leather as it dries out it's not too dry and if it is apply a little condition and rub in.
When I have had hard, muddy yucky leather in for repairs first thing I do is chuck it in a bucket of warm water with the washing up liquid, leave it for a few mins then gently use a sponge or soft brush to get the mud, sweat and crud off. Then chuck it in plain warm water in another bucket to rinse, then hang it up over my workshop door (not in the sun).Before it gets too dry I  use a little leather conditioner on it as the washing will have removed some of the fats that you need to keep the leather in good condition.
Just think of the leather as your own skin, no not saying you look weathered ! but when you wash your hands a lot they sometimes get dry don't they?
You may put a moisturiser on of some sorts to make them soft again?
Same principles apply to your leather.
Oz


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## cremedemonthe (7 January 2015)

twiggy2 said:



			saddle and bridle have come up lovely, Thanks Oz

Will be doing boots and chaps today, I have nice soft hands today too.
		
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Glad it's worked for you, it really DOES soften your hands doesn't it?
One lady told me she even went through the shower and her hands were still soft afterwards.
Maybe I ought to sell it as hand cream too!
If chaps are suede don't use it, only use it on  leather.
Oz


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## cremedemonthe (7 January 2015)

I have read on another forum (USA) that one guy dunks his tack in 5 gallons of harness oil for 48 hours, then leaves it draining and drying infront of his furnace!
Another one buried his tack in the sand in his backyard overnight to "soften" it"
I tried to tell them this wasn't a good idea and why it wasn't but got shouted down, you can only try to help some people can't you!
Oz


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## MagicMelon (7 January 2015)

Can this be used on WOW saddles? Someone told me that I should never put anything on the seat as its already ingrained with something (although it looks like regular normal leather to me...).


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## cremedemonthe (8 January 2015)

MagicMelon said:



			Can this be used on WOW saddles? Someone told me that I should never put anything on the seat as its already ingrained with something (although it looks like regular normal leather to me...).
		
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Never tried it on a WOW, if it's veg tanned leather it will be absorbed, try a small test area out of view if possible first and please tell me what the result is as I'd like to know.


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## D66 (8 January 2015)

Where are peeps getting their beeswax, and how much are you buying?  I haven't looked at lard and dripping pack sizes yet. 
We have some beeswax from our hives but not much - our son uses it to make furniture polish.


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## Greylegs (8 January 2015)

I've ordered some from a supplier on Amazon ... just searched Bees Wax and it appeared.  Buying 5 bars totalling 150gms in weight, which I'll use and see how far it goes. (still waiting for it to be delivered though ...!)


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## scrat (8 January 2015)

Hi Oz. What would you for an old but quality set of black heavy horse harness? I have bought a set which is a bit unloved and dry. Everything is in good condition for a starter set. I was told to use boot polish but I can't see that feeding the leather. It will be used for decorated harness classes (turnout) so I can see why they use boot polish. Do you have any ancient tips from heavy horse people about how they look after their harness? Would your recipe be suitable to bring this back to life? Sorry for all the questions but this thread is very interesting.


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## BSL (8 January 2015)

Mrs Santa said:



			I've ordered some from a supplier on Amazon ... just searched Bees Wax and it appeared.  Buying 5 bars totalling 150gms in weight, which I'll use and see how far it goes. (still waiting for it to be delivered though ...!)
		
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That's where I got mine. A little goes a long way.


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## BSL (8 January 2015)

Thank you for sharing Cremedemonthe, I am really pleased with my saddle.


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## cremedemonthe (8 January 2015)

scrat said:



			Hi Oz. What would you for an old but quality set of black heavy horse harness? I have bought a set which is a bit unloved and dry. Everything is in good condition for a starter set. I was told to use boot polish but I can't see that feeding the leather. It will be used for decorated harness classes (turnout) so I can see why they use boot polish. Do you have any ancient tips from heavy horse people about how they look after their harness? Would your recipe be suitable to bring this back to life? Sorry for all the questions but this thread is very interesting.
		
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NEVER use boot polish on veg tanned leather, we were taught at College it seals the leather so doesn't allow any more moisture in only out, eventually the leather breaks.
This recipe is ok for Harness, I used my own version which is slightly different on friend's singles harness, brought it up lovely. BUT you'll need an old toothbrush to melt it into the stitching.
Oz


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## cremedemonthe (8 January 2015)

BSL said:



			Thank you for sharing Cremedemonthe, I am really pleased with my saddle.
		
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Welcome, why buy expensive commercial brands when you don't know what's in it or what it does to your hands, horse or leather when you can make your own and you know exactly what is in it!


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## scrat (8 January 2015)

cremedemonthe said:



			NEVER use boot polish on veg tanned leather, we were taught at College it seals the leather so doesn't allow any more moisture in only out, eventually the leather breaks.
This recipe is ok for Harness, I used my own version which is slightly different on friend's singles harness, brought it up lovely. BUT you'll need an old toothbrush to melt it into the stitching.
Oz
		
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Thanks Oz


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## cremedemonthe (8 January 2015)

scrat said:



			Thanks Oz
		
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I made this earlier!
I use the leather conditioner on this when needs be, keeps it nice,Oz






[/URL]


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## cremedemonthe (17 January 2015)

quizzie said:



			I asked the same question a while ago, after a horse had a reaction to a different saddle cleaner/soap, & they sent me this:


Ingredients of Effax Lederbalsam:

DESTILLATES (PETROLEUM) HYDROTREATED LIGHT PARAFFINIC
PETROLATUM
SOLVENT-REFINED LIGHT AND HEAVY PARAFFINICS
PARAFFIN
HYDROGENATED MICROCRYSTALLINE WAX
CERA MICROCRISTALLINA
LANOLIN
PERSEA GRATISSIMA (AVOCADO) OIL
CERA ALBA
PARFUM
CI 12700
		
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Further to your post about ingredients of Effax I wondered what CI 12700 is. It seems to be a yellow type of dye to make the product look yellow I suppose as Effax hasn't good a good dose of beeswax to make it yellow naturally.I think it's important information for anyone who uses this product.

Here's the info :
Dyes: Solvent soluble powders

Fat
Selected fat dyes are included in at least one of the authorised use lists for the EU. USA or Japan.
Especially used for the colouration of home care products based on organic solvents, oil, fat or wax, such as polish, air freshener, etc

On the chart I looked at it has the use restriction number 4 which is:
FOR RINSE OFF PRODUCTS ONLY
So people, this stuff has an ingredient you use on your leather, it's gets on your hands AND more importantly is against the hair/skin of your horse.
They even add colouring to flipping leather conditioner which is purely for our sake, it's certainly not for the benefit of leather or horse is it?
One has to ask WHY is it for rinse off products only and WHY do the manufacturers add it to an product that is going to be in contact with your beloved horse?

http://www.clariant.de/C12576850036A6E9/33B8D1A3E48B38BBC1257773002A96C4/$FILE/DP5023E%2005.10.pdf


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## Greylegs (17 January 2015)

Well ... The beeswax arrived and I made up a batch of Oz's now famous leather conditioner. It will be getting its first try out this weekend. A quick question though ... I was sort of expecting the finished product to be similar in consistency to lard but it's quite hard, more like a bar of chocolate &#128516; have it done something wrong? Used the proportions in the recipe based on 150gms of beeswax, so added 150gms of lard and 300 gms of beef fat. But, as I said, now it's set, it's quite hard.


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## twiggy2 (17 January 2015)

Greylegs said:



			Well ... The beeswax arrived and I made up a batch of Oz's now famous leather conditioner. It will be getting its first try out this weekend. A quick question though ... I was sort of expecting the finished product to be similar in consistency to lard but it's quite hard, more like a bar of chocolate &#55357;&#56836; have it done something wrong? Used the proportions in the recipe based on 150gms of beeswax, so added 150gms of lard and 300 gms of beef fat. But, as I said, now it's set, it's quite hard.
		
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Mine is too, I believe that is why the elbow grease is needed in such large quantities to work it into the leather


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## cremedemonthe (17 January 2015)

No you haven't done anything wrong, leave it in a warm place to help often it up a but when I use mine (and I have just been conditioning a 1960's briefcase in for restorations) I dig a lump out/break a piece off  and rub it on the leather like using a piece of soap. The movement/friction heats the fats up and melts them in to the leatehr as well as the warmth from your hands


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## pennyturner (17 January 2015)

I did find that a couple of degrees difference in room temperature makes it much easier to use.  We keep a cool house, so now I leave the jar in the kitchen for a few hours before I use it.  Definitely not out in the pantry or tack room, or I'd have to chip bits off with a chisel.


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## cremedemonthe (17 January 2015)

pennyturner said:



			I did find that a couple of degrees difference in room temperature makes it much easier to use.  We keep a cool house, so now I leave the jar in the kitchen for a few hours before I use it.  Definitely not out in the pantry or tack room, or I'd have to chip bits off with a chisel.
		
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Lol, yes it can get hard when it's cold. Try putting a small piece between your palms and rub your hands together,it melts it to enable you to apply.
This is why modern commercial products have so many chemicals it, to make it stay soft and easier to apply but by looking at the ingredients posted in Quizzie's post above at what price are people paying with their health for this?


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## pinball (17 January 2015)

hi Oz
probably a daft question hows the best way to use it on a western saddle its quite difficult to teach the grain on it ,cant wait to get my beeswax from work on monday and try it on the bridle as its quite stiff
thanks


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## cremedemonthe (17 January 2015)

pinball said:



			hi Oz
probably a daft question hows the best way to use it on a western saddle its quite difficult to teach the grain on it ,cant wait to get my beeswax from work on monday and try it on the bridle as its quite stiff
thanks
		
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Do you mean reach the flesh side?
If so where you can't get to the flesh side and that can apply to any type of saddle or leathergoods etc, apply to the grain side and leave for a little longer to be absorbed in.
It might need a second application if very dried out and do it there after frequently to keep it in good condition and supple.
I'm making up a new batch of my leather conditioner tomorrow as sold out again!
Oz


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## bellatrix (17 January 2015)

Oh lord I think I might go and chuck my tub of Effax in the bin now!! Im going to cheat and order some from you Oz - dont have the time to buy/make this but would love to try it out on my tack


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## Arizahn (17 January 2015)

bellatrix said:



			Oh lord I think I might go and chuck my tub of Effax in the bin now!! Im going to cheat and order some from you Oz - dont have the time to buy/make this but would love to try it out on my tack
		
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Why not donate the Effax to someone else who might want to use it? Perhaps a friend or a fellow livery if you are on a yard. Or even your local riding centre. Seems like a waste to chuck it away and add to the landfill in the world. But that's only my opinion. Personally I will stick with my current cheap and presumably nasty tub of commercially produced gunk, as I'm perfectly happy with it


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## pinball (18 January 2015)

Thank you Oz


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## cremedemonthe (18 January 2015)

pinball said:



			Thank you Oz
		
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 Welcome


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## twiggy2 (31 January 2015)

the stubben saddle soap we have at work says to 'avoid contact with skin'! which I find a bit worrying


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## cremedemonthe (31 January 2015)

twiggy2 said:



			the stubben saddle soap we have at work says to 'avoid contact with skin'! which I find a bit worrying
		
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At least they are being honest


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## alwaysbroke (31 January 2015)

Just found this thread, OH's saddle is looking a bit worse for wear and I have just ordered a new bridle, great timing, will get on to this right away


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## twiggy2 (31 January 2015)

cremedemonthe said:



			At least they are being honest 

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Well that is very true


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## cremedemonthe (23 February 2015)

Anybody else tried making their own yet?
Oz


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## Penny Eater (23 February 2015)

cremedemonthe said:



			Anybody else tried making their own yet?
Oz
		
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Finally got around to using your conditioner! Bridle has never looked so good, or been so supple. Not to mention how soft it left my hands! Thanks Oz


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## cremedemonthe (23 February 2015)

Penny Eater said:



			Finally got around to using your conditioner! Bridle has never looked so good, or been so supple. Not to mention how soft it left my hands! Thanks Oz 

Click to expand...

 good, nice to hear


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## TT55 (24 February 2015)

I made some too. Very good stuff, but boy is it hard work! Not sure it'll make it into my regular tack maintenance routine, but i will use it when i have time. 

Interestingly though, it works well on all my horse tack, but my OH's leather boots haven't come up so nice!


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## ApolloStorm (24 February 2015)

Thinking of trying this out, how often would you recommend using it? monthly? or less often?


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## cremedemonthe (24 February 2015)

TT55 said:



			I made some too. Very good stuff, but boy is it hard work! Not sure it'll make it into my regular tack maintenance routine, but i will use it when i have time. 

Interestingly though, it works well on all my horse tack, but my OH's leather boots haven't come up so nice!
		
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You may find the boots are not veg tanned and this stuff is only good for veg tanned. Boots sometimes are chrome tanned or semi chrome which doesn't absorb this conditioner well, if at all. IF the are veg tanned they may have been treated with stuff to make them water proof in which case, this product can't be absorbed.
Did the boots smell very leathery when they were new, if so they are veg tanned.


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## cremedemonthe (24 February 2015)

ApolloStorm said:



			Thinking of trying this out, how often would you recommend using it? monthly? or less often?
		
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It largely depends on the time of year, the weather and how often you use your tack.
It's like asking how often do you need to wash your car!
Keep and eye on the leather, when it starts feeling dry or creaking (that's a good sign it's starting to get dry) then condition it.
I use it once a month this time of year and more often in the hot dry summer months on my leather.
You can always try a test area to see if it is drawn in to the leather, if it soaks in , then condition all of it.


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## cornbrodolly (24 March 2015)

cremedemonthe --At last I got the recipe made and used - fantastic.What a lovely deep shine, but with quite a lot of saddles and bridles ,plus spares etc , its taking a bit of hard work ! uusally i just paint on padfileds leather elixir!
We have various types of little used tack - I m wondering what is the best way to store them, once conditioned? I ve put the bridles in large plastic bags- is this ok? Also, would I condition a set of driving harness on the underside only? There are some patent leather pieces  on the harness -I m  assuming not to condition those and use something else?


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## cremedemonthe (24 March 2015)

cornbrodolly said:



			cremedemonthe --At last I got the recipe made and used - fantastic.What a lovely deep shine, but with quite a lot of saddles and bridles ,plus spares etc , its taking a bit of hard work ! uusally i just paint on padfileds leather elixir!
We have various types of little used tack - I m wondering what is the best way to store them, once conditioned? I ve put the bridles in large plastic bags- is this ok? Also, would I condition a set of driving harness on the underside only? There are some patent leather pieces  on the harness -I m  assuming not to condition those and use something else?
		
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Glad you like it, it's only downside is, as you and several others have found out, it's good old fashioned hard work !
I could tell you to add spirits or oils to make it easier to use but then, that defeats the object of using 100% natural ingredients.
Storing leather:
Leather needs to breathe, all veg tan leather will lose moisture every day whether it's new, old, used or unused and that moisture needs to get out therefore plastic bags may get condensation in them. I put bridles I have made and conditioned in old (thick) 100% cotton pillow cases, the cotton will absorb any moisture in the air as well as protect the leather from getting scratches.
Store the in a dry room best temperature for leather is 56 degrees F. Don't store anywhere unheated like outside tackroom or garage, keep away from fires, radiators and sunlight.
Patent leather has a plastic coating, if you can get to the back of the leather you may be able to apply a tiny amount of conditioner but do becareful it doesn't swamp the leather and damage the Patent surface from underneath.
Oz


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## twiggy2 (24 March 2015)

my hands end up black when doing both my saddle and my bridle


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## cremedemonthe (24 March 2015)

Shouldn't do, sounds like the dye is leeching out of the leather in one or both items.


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## Tern (24 March 2015)

Still haven't made this.. however I remembered that my showing bridle was advertised as "english leather" it isn't and isn't stamped either.. also hard as a rock.  Off to waitrose to buy the lard on weekend then will swamp this bridle in this stuff for this coming show season! I am tempted to buy off you Oz but I shall try myself first!


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## cremedemonthe (25 March 2015)

Tern said:



			Still haven't made this.. however I remembered that my showing bridle was advertised as "english leather" it isn't and isn't stamped either.. also hard as a rock.  Off to waitrose to buy the lard on weekend then will swamp this bridle in this stuff for this coming show season! I am tempted to buy off you Oz but I shall try myself first!  

Click to expand...

If it's foreign leather you will struggle to get moisture in it, try soaking it in warm water first for a longer than the few minutes I recommend until leather is a little more pliable, that's all you can do really with hard foreign leather short of running it over with a steam roller to soften it up


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## twiggy2 (25 March 2015)

cremedemonthe said:



			Shouldn't do, sounds like the dye is leeching out of the leather in one or both items.
		
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that is what I thought, the saddle is kent and masters and the bridle micklem. I will do them one at a time and see which one or if it is both


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## cremedemonthe (25 March 2015)

twiggy2 said:



			that is what I thought, the saddle is kent and masters and the bridle micklem. I will do them one at a time and see which one or if it is both
		
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Take care, some leather dyes are aniline and carcinogenic, keep it off your hands, try using tight fitting thin latex gloves, if they are tight enough hopefully the conditioner won't drag on the gloves and pull them off or wrinkle them


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## twiggy2 (25 March 2015)

cremedemonthe said:



			Take care, some leather dyes are aniline and carcinogenic, keep it off your hands, try using tight fitting thin latex gloves, if they are tight enough hopefully the conditioner won't drag on the gloves and pull them off or wrinkle them
		
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thank you for the heads up, bit scary what they use on stuff. is there any way I can find out what is used on particular makes of bridle leather that you know of?


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## cremedemonthe (25 March 2015)

twiggy2 said:



			thank you for the heads up, bit scary what they use on stuff. is there any way I can find out what is used on particular makes of bridle leather that you know of?
		
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No, other than to ask the manufacturer which tannery they buy their hides from and then ask the tannery directly. 
It's usually the cheap foreign leather and some cheaper European hides that are the worst offenders as they don't "fix" the dye properly to stop it leeching out.


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## ycbm (27 March 2015)

Oz, if I don't want to bother making my own, which commercial conditioner would you recommend please?


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## PorkChop (27 March 2015)

ycbm said:



			Oz, if I don't want to bother making my own, which commercial conditioner would you recommend please?
		
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You can buy it directly from Oz - thats what I do because I am a lazy bum - the link is earlier in the thread


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## cremedemonthe (27 March 2015)

LJR said:



			You can buy it directly from Oz - thats what I do because I am a lazy bum - the link is earlier in the thread 

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lol


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## Beausmate (27 March 2015)

I bought some too.  It's not that much hard work if you have warm hands.  I found it quite therapeutic 

Unfortunately, lack of equipment makes the DIY stuff impossible to make....  And I'm a lazy bum


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## jojo5 (28 March 2015)

Cornbrodolly - where do you get the stuff you refer to - pad fields leather elixir? I heard of this years ago I think but can't find it now.


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## Joyous70 (12 June 2015)

Am a lazy bum also  have just ordered a tub of your conditioner Oz, for my lovely new saddle, I will enjoy sitting in the garden in the sunshine doing both my saddle & bridle.


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## cremedemonthe (12 June 2015)

Joyous70 said:



			Am a lazy bum also  have just ordered a tub of your conditioner Oz, for my lovely new saddle, I will enjoy sitting in the garden in the sunshine doing both my saddle & bridle.
		
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It will make your hands very soft too!
Oz


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## lannerch (1 May 2021)

cremedemonthe said:



			I get asked on UK horse forums how to make and care for veg tanned saddlery leather and have been asked on here a few times recently so resurrecting this old post, hope it helps.

Firstly a bit about oiling and veg tanned leather.
NEATSFOOT OIL, is a popular choice to condition modern hides BUT although modern neatsfoot oil is still made from cattle-based products, it has a tendency to speed oxidation of the leather.
If mineral oil or other petroleum-based material is added, the product may be called "neatsfoot oil compound".
Some brands have also been shown to be adulterated with rapeseed oil, soya oil, and other oils.
The addition of mineral oils may lead to more rapid decay of non-synthetic stitching or speed breakdown of the leather itself
AVOID!
You won't always see the damage to the fibres of the hide with the naked eyes and think it's ok to use it but you get down to the cellular level and look at the fibres under a microscope of hide oiled with neatsfoot and you'll see what I mean.

LEATHER CONDITIONER:
All veg tanned leather will lose moisture everyday whether it's used or not, best thing to condition leather to make it last is any product without any silicone or preservatives (that some modern leather conditioners contain)  includes, tallow, bees wax and lanolin or all 3 if possible.
I make my own leather conditioner simply because I use so much veg tan in my trade, I have hides that I have hand dressed that are at least 25 years old when I first trained and are as good as new.

Home made leather conditioner (traditional) recipe:
My own recipe is a secret one I have perfected over many years but what I will give you a basic one, get hold of any beef fat (I make my own tallow but you can use beef dripping), beeswax and some lard (pig fat, again I make my own), do roughly a 50% beef fat, 25 % beeswax and 25% lard,gently melt it down on a low heat and mix it thoroughly.
Let it set, when you use it if it has melted because the weather is warm, shove it in the fridge for 10-20 mins to get the right consistency.
This is real old fashioned English Saddler's grease



BEST WAY OF USING IT:
Remember any moisture you add to leather whether water or leather conditioner can darken leather down, so if in doubt try a test area first.
When conditioning the clean  leather, wipe it with a warm wet cloth (just warm water) and whilst still wet/damp get some conditioner on your fingers, the heat from your hand and your fingers are by far the best way to apply any conditioner, it's a mucky job but forget sponges, cloths or brushes at this stage!
By putting the water on first it acts as a medium that aids the penetration of the fats right into the fibres of the hide.
The flesh side of the hide is far more porous than the grain side,try to imagine a funnel shape to the fibre with the wide open mouth end as the flesh side (flesh side is the underside where the flesh used to be) so allow a little more conditioner that side, you don't need alot anyway as it goes a long way.
Rub it all over and massage it into the hide, then leave it to dry naturally in a dry room and not in any sunlight or near artifcial heat,it can take 3 days or more to dry out and be asorbed into the hide, depends how much you use!
When it's dry, then get a lint free cloth, I use old bath towels cut up, the bobbly bits of the towelling act like a polishing stone and this is where it gets hard work, you need alot of elbow grease.
It's basically good old fashioned saddler's grease which most saddlers, leatherworkers and cobblers would have made years ago and none of the commercially made stuff you get today.
The idea is to rub the hide fast and fairly hard, not too hard to scratch it, the friction heats up any fats you have left on the hide (the white stuff) and gets it further into the fibres to add to the already absorbed conditioner that you put on it a few days before.
Lastly, this where it looks like I am contradicting myself about saying not to use oil on hides but I do, I use cod liver oil (NEVER neatsfoot as explained at the beginning)and wring a cotton cloth out in the cod liver oil so almost dry and put a very LIGHT film on both sides of the hide,wipe off any surplus and give it another gentle polish to buff it up with a bit of clean, dry bath towel, you are merely giving it a final dressing with the cod liver oil NOT conditioning or feeding it, it also gives the hide back it's leathery smell, a good trick of the trade to know if you sell second hand saddlery or leather, people love the smell of leather!
When completed you should have hide that is fairly stuffed full of fat and wax which is what it was designed for and it will have a nice bloom/shine to it, it should feel slightly moist/clammy but not sticky, if it is sticky you need to rub it more, it should feel heavier too.The conditioning will act as a rain barrier to keep the wet out.
Sorry for long post but I think it's worth mentioning all this.
Happy polishing!

Oz 

Saddler in Surrey
		
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Just resurrecting this thread for all those recently asking about cleaning leather, the above is brilliant advice , and I’ve just purchased the above ingredients to give it ago . Thank you so much oz 🙏😀


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## lannerch (7 May 2021)

cremedemonthe said:



			It will make your hands very soft too!
Oz
		
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Well I have made some conditioner from your recipe and it is lovely stuff my brand new bridle is now very soft and shiny . How should I store my conditioner, will it last at room temperature or should I put it in the fridge as all the ingredients bar the beeswax originated in the fridge. 
will be doing my saddles tomorrow 👍


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## cremedemonthe (8 May 2021)

Glad you like it, mine has anti fungal ingredients in it so it's not so much of a problem where I keep it. It needs to be in a cool, dry place. Some keep it in their fridge without a problem. The lard is the only thing that actually needs to be kept in there. If you keep it in your fridge, take it out a few hours before you need it to let it get up to room temperature to make it easier to cut it up..
ALWAYS keep it away from pets.
Oz


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## lannerch (8 May 2021)

cremedemonthe said:



			Glad you like it, mine has anti fungal ingredients in it so it's not so much of a problem where I keep it. It needs to be in a cool, dry place. Some keep it in their fridge without a problem. The lard is the only thing that actually needs to be kept in there. If you keep it in your fridge, take it out a few hours before you need it to let it get up to room temperature to make it easier to cut it up..
ALWAYS keep it away from pets.
Oz
		
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Thanks oz fridge it’s is then


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## Koppatj (15 March 2022)

Hi Oz,  great advice,  I have a question would emu oil be a good oil to use , and also rough out leather what is the best method of application for deep penetrative of the mix , would I apply and then hair dry it in , thanks for sharing your knowledge


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## sbloom (15 March 2022)

Koppatj said:



			Hi Oz,  great advice,  I have a question would emu oil be a good oil to use , and also rough out leather what is the best method of application for deep penetrative of the mix , would I apply and then hair dry it in , thanks for sharing your knowledge
		
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I'll ask on his behalf, what's the "problem" you want to solve with emu oil?  His conditioner is solid at room temperature, a very long way from anything like an oil.  Oil is seldom needed with most saddle leather, some foreign leathers recommend an occasional application, for English leathers it's really only needed for initial restoration of very old, dry leather.


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## Gloi (15 March 2022)

I made your beef fat/beeswax/lard recipe and have been using it thanks very much.
MY problem is that there is no heating at the stables and it is rock hard in winter until I warm a chunk up with bodyheat. I want to make the next batch with a lower melting point , what is the best thing to add? Thanks.


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## sbloom (15 March 2022)

Gloi said:



			I made your beef fat/beeswax/lard recipe and have been using it thanks very much.
MY problem is that there is no heating at the stables and it is rock hard in winter until I warm a chunk up with bodyheat. I want to make the next batch with a lower melting point , what is the best thing to add? Thanks.
		
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Lol, you won't get an answer to that one (if you do, tell me too!), you'll need to heat the conditioner, just what you need to use.  Take a thermos?


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## Gloi (15 March 2022)

sbloom said:



			Lol, you won't get an answer to that one (if you do, tell me too!), you'll need to heat the conditioner, just what you need to use.  Take a thermos?
		
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Do you think adding lanolin might help? Otherwise I'm going to have to keep chiselling off chunks and putting them in a little plastic bag in my bra under my boob (also works with keratex hoof putty) 😂 or I might take a thermos though that would need prior organisation.


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## Koppatj (15 March 2022)

sbloom said:



			I'll ask on his behalf, what's the "problem" you want to solve with emu oil?  His conditioner is solid at room temperature, a very long way from anything like an oil.  Oil is seldom needed with most saddle leather, some foreign leathers recommend an occasional application, for English leathers it's really only needed for initial restoration of very old, dry leather.
		
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What im wanting to know is would emu oil be a suitable replacement for lanolin as one ingredients in his leather conditioner recipe , what ill actually be using it for is to condition my fur skins hence also why I asked about application methods to  to flesh side , ill be making conditioner going off oz's basic recipe but want to add emu oil and ill also be adding a tiny bit of eucalyptus oil and tee tree oil for anti bacterial anti fungal property's,


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## sbloom (16 March 2022)

Gloi said:



			Do you think adding lanolin might help? Otherwise I'm going to have to keep chiselling off chunks and putting them in a little plastic bag in my bra under my boob (also works with keratex hoof putty) 😂 or I might take a thermos though that would need prior organisation.
		
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It has lanolin in it already, only oil or solvents will soften it afaik, hence the best conditioners are pretty solid.  Applying by hand is also helpful - the direct warmth, and friction from vigorous application, helps.



Koppatj said:



			What im wanting to know is would emu oil be a suitable replacement for lanolin as one ingredients in his leather conditioner recipe , what ill actually be using it for is to condition my fur skins hence also why I asked about application methods to  to flesh side , ill be making conditioner going off oz's basic recipe but want to add emu oil and ill also be adding a tiny bit of eucalyptus oil and tee tree oil for anti bacterial anti fungal property's,
		
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I would message him as that's pretty specialist stuff.


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## Koppatj (16 March 2022)

sbloom said:



			It has lanolin in it already, only oil or solvents will soften it afaik, hence the best conditioners are pretty solid.  Applying by hand is also helpful - the direct warmth, and friction from vigorous application, helps.



I would message him as that's pretty specialist stuff.
		
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Im not sure how to message directly im hoping I can tag @cremedemonthe


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## OldNag (16 March 2022)

Gloi said:



			Do you think adding lanolin might help? Otherwise I'm going to have to keep chiselling off chunks and putting them in a little plastic bag in my bra under my boob (also works with keratex hoof putty) 😂 or I might take a thermos though that would need prior organisation.
		
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If I am using it in the cold, I find that having a chunk in my hand, it softens with my hand heat fine.  I just hold it for a bit and then rub it in. 
Bra sounds a good method too.

I wouldn't be tempted to add anything to soften it.


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## CanteringCarrot (16 March 2022)

I do have one leather conditioner that's pretty solid unless it's warm. I keep it at home, and just bring my tack home to give it a good conditioning, then bring the tack back to the yard the next day. This also allows me to clean and condition my tack in the warm comfort of my own home 😅 and I can take my time because I like to take the whole bridle apart every few weeks or so for a thorough clean and condition as needed. I usually just a wipe down with a soft cloth after use at the yard. I wipe off the saddle (dust, mainly) and bridle (sometimes with a little bit of water) after every ride.

I do work the conditioner in with my hands.


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## cremedemonthe (30 March 2022)

I simply  cut a lump off and hold it in my hand and ub it to melt it, or put it on a rad if you have one to warm it up but don't microwave it as it can alter some of the ingredients and they won't be as good.
Oz


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## poiuytrewq (30 March 2022)

Hi Oz, on a slightly off topic but know I’ve read the answer to my question written by you previously.. 
I was leaving  tack in my lorry for some friends to ride my pony. They haven’t been over winter due to weather and tiny child but I stupidly left it in there without thinking. 
The saddle is synthetic so that’s fine but the bridle is blue  
I do remember that I mustn’t clean it in the tack room because of spores but can you advise please?


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## cremedemonthe (30 March 2022)

I'll send you some instructions, hang on and yes you are correct about the spores


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