# Anyone used a pheasant pelt on a dummy?



## Spudlet (13 January 2015)

I don't have anywhere to keep a bird with the feathers on (freezer is too titchy!) and I don't have a regular enough supply to just keep getting fresh ones, so I was wondering about getting a pelt to put onto a dummy as a substitute. Anyone used one?


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## Dizzydancer (13 January 2015)

We have used just the feathers can't remember how we attached it! It worked fine the dogs got used to the feel and smell- didn't last forever but did the job.
Although saying that our dog didn't have a prob picking them so if your having an issue you may need the pelt.


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## Dry Rot (13 January 2015)

You really don't need a stuffed pheasant if your dog is properly trained and off working lines. A well trained dog should retrieve anything you want it to. Most would much rather retrieve a nice gamey freshly deceased pheasant than your smelly old dummy and if they don't it is usually the sign of a training fault. 

A pigeon inside a lady's stocking (so they don't swallow feathers) is a good substitute. Even a frozen one should do. If there is any resistance to retrieving dead game, tie the wing of the bird on your dummy (with a strong elastic band?) and try that. If that doesn't work, start with a single flight feather and work up.

If you like spending money, you can get a whole spectrum of artificial scents ranging from game birds and animals through to cadaver and Class A drug scents, even paper money! I did ask my local cops if they could let me have a kilo of cocaine to train my dogs on for drug sniffing but the rotters didn't even reply! 

When training a dog to retrieve, the golden rule is to remember that it is a privilege, not a duty. I would say four retrieves a day could be too many for a young dog. Six certainly would be. Most novices over do it.


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## abb123 (13 January 2015)

We've just had an introduction to fur and feather at my gundog puppy training classes.

It was amazing to see the difference in responses from the dogs. We used a rabbit pelt covered dummy. All dogs are working bred and used to retrieving dummies and are around 8-9 months old.

One dog retrieved as normal and gave a perfect presentation (cocker).

One dog was terrified and wouldn't go near it (springer).

One ignored it completely (cocker).

One one dog retrieved ok but refused to let it go (lab).

What did my previously perfect golden retriever do? oh yes - got it then ran to the furthest part of the field and growled at everyone. Little minx! Luckily I have no intention of working her with any game so not a problem as such.


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## Alec Swan (13 January 2015)

Generally,  we simply remove the wings from dead pheasants,  or pigeons,  and attach them to the dummy.  That said,  I took a young Cocker dog out the other day,  shot two pheasants which he flushed,  and he retrieved both as if he'd been doing it all his life.  He'd previously never picked even a dead bird.  Mostly the transition from dummy to warm game,  is a relatively simple matter,  and if the retrieved bird is treated and viewed as a dummy would be,  it goes without a hitch.  Mostly!  

As D_R rightly says,  many retrieving problems with youngsters are brought about by doing too much,  rather than too little.  All training of youngsters,  as opposed to work,  would be limited to 3 or 4 retrieves during a day.  Anymore will encourage the dog to show the dummy disrespect,  and so too the handler.

Alec.


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## Clodagh (14 January 2015)

Alec or DR do you ever use cold game? We never have but it seems to be the thing now to move a dog from dummies to pheasants. The man thats helps us out with our training says dogs do not need training to retrieve as it is what they want to do (talking about working bred labs) all you need to train is 'Steady, quiet, wait'. He says, if your dog can do steady, quiet and wait it will be ready for anything.


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## Spudlet (14 January 2015)

Thanks all.


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## Clodagh (14 January 2015)

Spudlet, I am so sorry, I wasn't thinking about original post all but had vaguely moved on to what Alec said. I wasn't intending to be rude about your training or the use of cold game, I know it is very popular. Sorry.


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## Spudlet (14 January 2015)

Clodagh said:



			Spudlet, I am so sorry, I wasn't thinking about original post all but had vaguely moved on to what Alec said. I wasn't intending to be rude about your training or the use of cold game, I know it is very popular. Sorry.
		
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Oh I know, I wasn't being funny! Just thanks to everyone that has replied


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## Alec Swan (14 January 2015)

Clodagh said:



			Alec or DR do you ever use cold game? We never have but it seems to be the thing now to move a dog from dummies to pheasants. The man thats helps us out with our training says dogs do not need training to retrieve as it is what they want to do (talking about working bred labs) all you need to train is 'Steady, quiet, wait'. He says, if your dog can do steady, quiet and wait it will be ready for anything.
		
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Yes I use cold game,  when it's available,  and generally would.  Most committed retrievers will return with just about anything though!  I'd agree with the guy who helps out with your training.  

More is achieved by applying the breaks,  than by encouraging a please-yourself attitude.  Especially with retrieving work,  less really is more,  with young dogs.  Too much freedom of choice,  too soon in life,  doesn't help 'steadiness'  one bit,  I've found.  

Alec.


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## abb123 (14 January 2015)

Alec Swan said:



			Yes I use cold game,  when it's available,  and generally would.  Most committed retrievers will return with just about anything though!  I'd agree with the guy who helps out with your training.  

More is achieved by applying the breaks,  than by encouraging a please-yourself attitude.  Especially with retrieving work,  less really is more,  with young dogs.  Too much freedom of choice,  too soon in life,  doesn't help 'steadiness'  one bit,  I've found.  

Alec.
		
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I quite agree. 

The trainer introduced the fur covered dummy in our last class specifically so that he could introduce it in a controlled way and tell us how to use it properly. We were told NOT to use fur or feather on a regular basis and that we didn't need to use it. We only ever do 2 retrieves at a maximum in any class focussing on steadiness and obedience instead.


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## druid (14 January 2015)

I've got various rabbit and pheasant dummies that the pup has picked but were originally to work with the non retriever (the idea being to Ty and provide something he did want to retrieve - now he will only retrieve shot game, everything else is blinked but that's a damn sight better than his previous behavior when rescued). 

I think a controlled intro to fur and feather with dummies is useful, before moving on to cold game (you can get 3 goes out of a frozen phessie if you treat it with a bit of respect) and recently shot game. It's a good gauge of how your dog will handle it.


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## Cinnamontoast (16 January 2015)

I did some cold game training with a semi frozen hen pheasant over Christmas. It was the first ever cold game retrieves they'd done. Zak ignored the pheasant and carried on looking for a non existent dummy! With a bit of persuasion from a distance, he picked and retrieved. Bear, having seen this, was lots more direct. 





You can buy wings or rabbit pelt (I like this website http://www.sportingsaint.co.uk) to practise. I bought a rabbit covered ball at the big game fair last year, it's probably their favourite retrieve.


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