# How to stop dog chasing the cats.



## alainax (4 February 2015)

Hello! I was hoping all you smart dog owners may be able to offer me some wisdom on my predicament!

 Ill try and keep my post to the point. I want to knock this on the head immediately, so to not allow it to get any worse. We hoped she would mature and grow out of it, but I think we are going to have to do some real intervention here. 

Cocker spaniel, 6 months, bitch. Hyper happy little dog. 2 indoor cats, 8 year old Korat, and 4 year old Havana- both slightly aloof/nervy with the Korat being the more confident. 

I have had dogs and cat's all my life, and they just got along, there was no special training needed. Even with the English pointer, dalmatian etc, the cats just told them off. Now with the cocker I think I need some advice. 

When we first got the pup, the Korat would tell her off when she got too close, a growl or a bop on the nose and the pup would back off. Great! The Havana just doesn't have it in her. She's a quiet wee timorous thing. As the pup got bigger she began ignoring the cats bops and growls.  The cat can growl hiss and scratch all he likes, she will still run at him and try to play. The result is the cats just run. 

The pup isn't allowed up the stairs  but the cats are. So we put a puppy gate across. This stopped the pup getting upstairs, but the cats also have no incentive to come downstairs. 

I thought it would be a good idea to allow the cats to have some space from her, but now I wonder if this was a bad idea. As it seems to have just split them up. 

As for the puppies training, she is brilliant in all aspects, apart from this! She does the usual array of sit, stay, paw, lie down, drop - with her recall being perfect to date. Doesn't chase wildlife, comes back even if there are other dogs. Sits and waits at the road side etc. 

Her diet is good, and she is exercised very well. She will chase even when totally knackered after a long day. 

However, when she sees the cat's, she just goes into chase mode. Our current tactic has been to tell her "NO!" immediately as she put one paw into motion towards a cat, pick her up, and put her in her room. However it seems like she "Locks on" to them. The issue is also that they run. She doesn't seem to want to hurt them, more to play with them. Which they of course don't fancy!

I have thought that maybe I have been my own worst enemy here by giving the cats the safety of the upstairs, as they just run, pop over the gate, and that's the end of the chase. I thought maybe I have to force them to get used to each other, but safely. Possibly having her in the living room in her crate, bringing the cats down with us and all sitting. The puppy will go mental, the cats will get stressed - but would it if done regularly get them used to each other, or make it worse?

Another thought was to use her working breeding to train her to lie down even if she has spied something she wants to chase after. Would this work? 

Please let me know what you would do, I'd love to hear some suggestions. 

Thank you.


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## NellRosk (4 February 2015)

Hi OP, following this with interest as I have a terriest that chases cats and there's nothing I can do about it. I don't think this will change, but would like to see some suggestions.


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## Merlin11 (4 February 2015)

I brought a pup into the house with a cat and they get on ok. The cat just made sure the dog knew that she was boss from the start and now they tolerate each other. We also have a stair gate so don't think that is your problem. Not sure what to suggest. My dog is a lab which is maybe less likely to chase. She does sometimes want to play with the cat but the cat just threatens her and that's that. Maybe they do need to spend more time together. The training to lie down May work.


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## Clodagh (4 February 2015)

I would put her on a long line and keep my foot on it. When she looks at them tell her off, growl or say no (the kinder people will suggest a click and a biscuit) when she looks at you praise her. When she stops locking on to them and starts ignoring you can still keep the long line on and stop and distract.

ETA I am no professional, but that is what I personally would do.


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## Alec Swan (4 February 2015)

You teach her that the cats are out of bounds,  by having her 'listen' to you,  and by instilling discipline.  Attempting to teach her to not chase cats will be unlikely to work,  until you have a focused control,  and a definite level of discipline installed.  It sounds as though she's currently compliant,  when it's what suits her.  If she learns that you will be obeyed,  no matter what,  then stopping her current behaviour will be no more than an incidental aspect of her training.

There are times,  when the word 'No',  needs reinforcement.

Alec.


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## Teaselmeg (4 February 2015)

I would teach her impulse control first, not in relation to the cats, but food/toys etc, you can then use it in relation to the cats.  I would also put a harness and house line on her, so you stop her going towards them, the more often she chases, the more ingrained the behaviour will become.  If she looks at the cats then looks at you or ignores them at ANY point, big fuss and reward, it's the best thing she has ever done for you ! Also, make sure you use really high value treats as well, not kibble or shop bought treats, but something like sausage that she only gets when she is good around the cats.

Clicker training is fab for letting the dog know what you want, if you have not already been to puppy classes, maybe find a good local trainer, who will help you with getting started with clicker training ( it's really easy) and also the cat issue.  She is only 6 months old,  you do not want to lose her trust in you or scare her into complying.


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## Possum (4 February 2015)

We had exactly the same situation - a hyper young dog that annoyed our indoor cat constantly, and despite hisses and growls, just didn't take a hint and always wanted to play. 

We did a few things. Firstly, I think it's absolutely necessary to create dog-free space for the cats, they get very stressed when they're chased and it'll take time to show them that it's safe, feeding cat one side of the barrier and dog on the other is a good place to start. However, if you do have one that's braver then encouraging them downstairs when puppy is crashed out, maybe in the evenings, would be a good step forwards.

We taught a 'no cat' command that would be given as soon as she even looked at him, coupled with a long line so we could insist if she did decide to go after him. Generally if you waited until she'd started to move you were too late, and from experimentation just getting her to not physically chase didnt stop her fixating on him. It just took time and repetition - our little dog has a very strong prey drive and was incredibly hyper but now she knows that she gets a b********g for cat wrestling and praise and scratches for chilling with us it's been a while since she was a proper pest.

Also to add that because cat chasing is a self-rewarding behaviour, we found that it took a combination of negative and positive reinforcement to fix - no reward was good enough by itself to be more fun. We had to stand over her, shout at her and make her think that the world was ending if she did cross the line into a real chase, and the same for stealing his dinner.

ETA - I think I've made it sound easy - it really wasn't. We've had her for 11 months now and it's only since maybe December that we saw a real improvement. I do feel for you, at one point we seriously considered getting a second hyper dog in the hope that they would annoy each other not the cat (and it was with help from the people here that this was discouraged(!) and we finally made some real headway).


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## alainax (5 February 2015)

Clodagh said:



			I would put her on a long line and keep my foot on it. When she looks at them tell her off, growl or say no (the kinder people will suggest a click and a biscuit) when she looks at you praise her. When she stops locking on to them and starts ignoring you can still keep the long line on and stop and distract.

ETA I am no professional, but that is what I personally would do.
		
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I think the long line idea sounds promising. We had her on a short leash in the living room before, but attached to the table and not to us. She would just bounce around on it. I think if we had her close on it, then we could be quick to reprimand her. 



Alec Swan said:



			You teach her that the cats are out of bounds,  by having her 'listen' to you,  and by instilling discipline.  Attempting to teach her to not chase cats will be unlikely to work,  until you have a focused control,  and a definite level of discipline installed.  It sounds as though she's currently compliant,  when it's what suits her.  If she learns that you will be obeyed,  no matter what,  then stopping her current behaviour will be no more than an incidental aspect of her training.

There are times,  when the word 'No',  needs reinforcement.

Alec.
		
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I agree with this Alec, she is compliant as she likes to do as we ask, but as soon as that doesn't suit her - with the cats - then she is not. I guess the part I have to work out is how to teach her to obey our commands no matter what. 



Teaselmeg said:



			I would teach her impulse control first, not in relation to the cats, but food/toys etc, you can then use it in relation to the cats.  I would also put a harness and house line on her, so you stop her going towards them, the more often she chases, the more ingrained the behaviour will become.  If she looks at the cats then looks at you or ignores them at ANY point, big fuss and reward, it's the best thing she has ever done for you ! Also, make sure you use really high value treats as well, not kibble or shop bought treats, but something like sausage that she only gets when she is good around the cats.

Clicker training is fab for letting the dog know what you want, if you have not already been to puppy classes, maybe find a good local trainer, who will help you with getting started with clicker training ( it's really easy) and also the cat issue.  She is only 6 months old,  you do not want to lose her trust in you or scare her into complying.
		
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She is very food orientated, so the idea of having very special treat when the cats are around certainly sounds like it would distract her and be a good positive reinforcement when she does do it right. 



Possum said:



			We had exactly the same situation - a hyper young dog that annoyed our indoor cat constantly, and despite hisses and growls, just didn't take a hint and always wanted to play. 

We did a few things. Firstly, I think it's absolutely necessary to create dog-free space for the cats, they get very stressed when they're chased and it'll take time to show them that it's safe, feeding cat one side of the barrier and dog on the other is a good place to start. However, if you do have one that's braver then encouraging them downstairs when puppy is crashed out, maybe in the evenings, would be a good step forwards.

We taught a 'no cat' command that would be given as soon as she even looked at him, coupled with a long line so we could insist if she did decide to go after him. Generally if you waited until she'd started to move you were too late, and from experimentation just getting her to not physically chase didnt stop her fixating on him. It just took time and repetition - our little dog has a very strong prey drive and was incredibly hyper but now she knows that she gets a b********g for cat wrestling and praise and scratches for chilling with us it's been a while since she was a proper pest.

Also to add that because cat chasing is a self-rewarding behaviour, we found that it took a combination of negative and positive reinforcement to fix - no reward was good enough by itself to be more fun. We had to stand over her, shout at her and make her think that the world was ending if she did cross the line into a real chase, and the same for stealing his dinner.

ETA - I think I've made it sound easy - it really wasn't. We've had her for 11 months now and it's only since maybe December that we saw a real improvement. I do feel for you, at one point we seriously considered getting a second hyper dog in the hope that they would annoy each other not the cat (and it was with help from the people here that this was discouraged(!) and we finally made some real headway).
		
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This makes sense, that we will require both the negative and positive. I guess we have to up the levels of each of these types of reinforcement, as the "No" and getting put in her room is seemingly too soft, and like you say any praise we give her when she doesn't chase, isn't as good as the chase itself! 

Thank you all for your replies so far, some really useful insights as to where I am going wrong!

We had an older dog visiting who is good with cats. So spent some time with the cats getting used to the older dog last night. They gained a lot of confidence from her, and were very very curious.


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## PorkChop (5 February 2015)

What about teaching her a stop command, either with the whistle or voice.  I teach mine this command because they are gundogs, but could be used in any situation.

It would need to be 100% before you used it in the house.


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## alainax (5 February 2015)

LJR said:



			What about teaching her a stop command, either with the whistle or voice.  I teach mine this command because they are gundogs, but could be used in any situation.

It would need to be 100% before you used it in the house.
		
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Yes this is an idea. Is it something a noob like me can teach? Or would she have to go away for special training for that?


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## Clodagh (5 February 2015)

Well I am a noob and am halfway training my dog to it. I will cut and paste instructions the breeder sent me...

I do stop whistle to begin with when they are at heel. Just blow the whistle and say sit, then after a few she'll probably sit as soon as she hears whistle. Then sit her up, blow stop whistle, walk away a few paces and then go back to her and praise. When she's doing that ok, walk back a few paces, blow recall whistle and then stop whistle as she gets to you. As she progresses make the gap between you a bit bigger and then blow stop whistle when she's half way to you. You may have to step forward to make her sit at the exact point you blew whistle. When she's sitting as soon as you blow that stop whistle you can make it more interesting by stopping her and then throwing a dummy to one side or behind. You can only do this if she's rock steady to a thrown dummy. Then build on this. Sit her up, walk away several paces, whistle or call her in a little way , blow stop whistle, as she sits say good girl then throw out up to 3 dummies - one left, one right and one behind, send her for the one you want. Then take her back to that same spot, blow stop whistle again, then send her for another dummy. All this will keep her interest and be a reward for stopping. I always think the stop whistle is the most important thing, so much handling relies on an accurate stop so that you can then handle left, right or back towards the item you want to retrieve. It all sounds complicated but just give it a try.

ETA - you probably don't need to do allt he dummy stuff if you don't want to.


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## Alec Swan (5 February 2015)

Clodagh said:



			&#8230;&#8230;..

I do stop whistle to begin with when they are at heel. Just blow the whistle and say sit, then after a few she'll probably sit as soon as she hears whistle. Then sit her up, blow stop whistle, walk away a few paces and then go back to her and praise. When she's doing that ok, walk back a few paces, blow recall whistle and then stop whistle as she gets to you. As she progresses make the gap between you a bit bigger and then blow stop whistle when she's half way to you. You may have to step forward to make her sit at the exact point you blew whistle. When she's sitting as soon as you blow that stop whistle you can make it more interesting by stopping her and then throwing a dummy to one side or behind. You can only do this if she's rock steady to a thrown dummy. Then build on this. Sit her up, walk away several paces, whistle or call her in a little way , blow stop whistle, as she sits say good girl then throw out up to 3 dummies - one left, one right and one behind, send her for the one you want. Then take her back to that same spot, blow stop whistle again, then send her for another dummy. All this will keep her interest and be a reward for stopping. I always think the stop whistle is the most important thing, so much handling relies on an accurate stop so that you can then handle left, right or back towards the item you want to retrieve. It all sounds complicated but just give it a try.

&#8230;&#8230;&#8230; .
		
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Unfortunately,  there's an awful lot to disagree with in the advice above.  It's generally a mistake to give praise when the dog has complied with our wishes,  because 'generally' when a dog is placed in the down or sit-up position,  a 'Good Girl' will have the dog stand up.  Correcting and replacing the dog will negate any praise and add to confusion.  Praise (if you must!) should be given when the exercise is over,  and we collect the dog from where we've left it.

When the dog is left in the stay position,  then for youngsters anyway,  they should never be called up,  but the handler should go back and collect the dog.  That way the dog isn't waiting to be called,  and probably mis-reading instructions,  but it's sitting or lying,  confident that the handler will return.  It's a vital early lesson for all dogs.

No dog,  certainly not a youngster being trained,  should ever be heading back to the handler,  and be stopped en-route.  Again,  it simply adds to the confusion and in the less than manic,  it'll dishearten the animal.

If more than one dummy is being thrown,  then the retrieving should always be in the sequence in which sent the dummies were thrown.  That way dogs learn how to 'mark',  and it encourages the use of their memory.

I do however agree that the Stop Whistle is the most useful tool to a trainer!  I also agree that the 'dummy' should be the reward,  with the reward being a privilege.  

I'm sorry if I've pulled it to bits! 

Alec.


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## Clodagh (5 February 2015)

No, thats very interesting Alec. I have ignored it but assumed it was the right way to do it, I just didn't! The lady FTs successfully so it must work for her.


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## Amymay (5 February 2015)

Daisy will chase the cat in the house, but never, ever in the garden, where they hang out together - following each other around. 

No help at all....


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## PorkChop (5 February 2015)

Thing is that there are different ways to train the same thing!

I have spaniels so I train the stop whistle differently to how my friends with labs do.

Its all association, patience, repetition and consistancy.

OP you have already taught your puppy a great deal with success, you will have no trouble teaching another command


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## Alec Swan (5 February 2015)

amymay said:



			Daisy will chase the cat in the house, but never, ever in the garden, where they hang out together - following each other around. 

No help at all....
		
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That is indeed a very strange problem.  One might reasonably expect it to be the other way around,  with the dog pestering the cat whilst outside.  I'm no help either,  sorry!  

Alec.


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## westerngirl (6 February 2015)

I introduced new kitten to dog the other way round, kitten in dog crate with bed etc and somewhere to hide and dog outside. cat couldn't run away and quickly learnt was safe in crate, dog learnt its smell etc and that was not for chasing. Mind the kitten was semi-feral so was also accustoming it to people .


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## flirtygerty (6 February 2015)

Try using the leave it command, start with food/ball, get pup interested, then cover with your hand and say LEAVE IT, give pup it after a few seconds of waiting, my gsds used to sit while leaving, but I can't remember if I asked for that, but it's a useful tool, increase the time you make them wait, my dog used to drool from the nose and I could leave the room and return before the dog got what he was leaving, alternatively use a water pistol, squirt him every time he chases the cat


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## Kikke (6 February 2015)

How to stop evolution........


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## allyp (15 February 2015)

http://www.dog-secrets.co.uk/stop-how-to-control-predatory-chasing-in-dogs/ 
Hope link works, fantastic book and there's a short version in pdf on website.


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## JillA (15 February 2015)

Unfortunately there are two parts to the relationship - dog chases because cat runs and triggers the chase instinct, and once a cat has found out that the dog would like to catch him he will always run. If you want to interrupt the chase with a command or a whistle or whatever, your timing has to be spot on and you need to catch it BEFORE it becomes a full blown chase - a chasing dog won't hear you.
I resolved it with my JRT by crating her every time the cat is in the room (once or twice a day for increasing periods of time). That means that the cat learns not to scoot off at the slightest hint of dog, and dog learns to cope with the presence of a cat. It took a few carefully controlled weeks, and they were never best buddies but they could be found asleep on opposite ends of a sofa eventually.
Crate training your dog is always useful for a variety of events, just do it carefully keeping her happy to be in there (make it her dining room, toy room, den - most dogs put themselves in of their own accord once they are used to it) and is a real help in situations like this.


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## alainax (4 March 2015)

Just wanted to give a wee update on this. 

My sisters dog has came to visit - who loves cats, is gentle and shy towards them. This has gave the cats huge amounts of confidence!

We also taught the cats that the dog isnt any good with heights, so they are now looking at up as well as run for escape routes. 


Finnally.... the puppy. We have increased the row she gets when she chases, a loud barky NO BAD GIRL, swiftly followed by scooping her up and plonking her in her room. She quickly learned this would happen when she chased. The end of the chase is usually the cat gate on the stairs, but now when she heard one of us move she would end the chase and make a b-line for the office! Cleary knowing that what she was doign was going to end her in trouble, but not quite resisting the urge! 

We have done a lot of extensions on her "stay" training. Things like putting a treat beside her, telling her to stay and leaving the room, coming back in, and she still hasn't eaten it. Then letting her eat it as a reward. 

We upped this to getting her in "stay" mode, then throwing the treat so it whizzes right past her, she still stays ( although the look of sheer temptation in her eyes is very cute!), then having her wait until we say its ok to "un stay". We are also doing this when anyone leaves or enters the house, she must stay on the matt, sitting and waiting, until released from the stay command. She seems to find this really easy, hence us trying to adapt it for the cat situation! 

Today, the cat came into the room and we quickly got her to focus on the stay command. She stayed, and never moved a muscle while the cat walked around. The cat then bolted off and she set chase, but when we shouted STAY!!! at her, she stopped chasing! And stayed  Yay!

Little steps, but at least in the right direction! 

So just little steps, but seems to be getting somewhere.


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## Lunchbox legend (5 March 2015)

I had this problem when I had a foster cat and my springer.  I put the dog crate in the sitting room and the dog and cat went in it alternately for about 10-15 minutes at a time each.  I just sat on the floor watching t.v. knowing that they were both safe and that neither was 'imprisoned' for the whole evening.  That way, I could relax and then so could they.  It only took a couple of evenings and a few words of "oi, tone it down you two" for them to accept each other.


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## alainax (5 March 2015)

The trouble with the crate is she really bounces off it and rattles it when excited. Even when just standing there she can make a right clatter with wagging her tail which utterly terrifies the cats!


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## Crugeran Celt (5 March 2015)

You could borrow my cat, he never runs away from any dog and if one gets close enough he will growl and give it a good swipe for good measure.  He has taught all my dogs some manners towards all cats. The dogs have a great deal of respect for cats in my house.


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## alainax (5 March 2015)

Crugeran Celt said:



			You could borrow my cat, he never runs away from any dog and if one gets close enough he will growl and give it a good swipe for good measure.  He has taught all my dogs some manners towards all cats. The dogs have a great deal of respect for cats in my house.
		
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Yes please! I need a matcho cat to teach this puppy a lesson! I have said to my boy cat to just bop her one! 

The other day the puppy was in the garden and ran towards the neighbours cat - who quickly showed the pup who is boss.. Pup didn't even get within 6 feet of the cat before backing off. I need to borrow a tough cat


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## npage123 (6 March 2015)

To create the impression that my cats are more 'dominant' than my dogs, I prepare all their feed whilst the dogs are made to sit and wait patiently, and I then put the cats' feed down first in a safe area, and afterwards put the dogs' feed down.

I would also groom/cuddle the cats on floor level, and stay in control of how close I allow the dogs to come up to the cat.  I sometimes may choose to keep the dogs away at arm's length, or I may choose to call one of the dogs over to sniff the cat briefly.  Sometimes I would cradle/hold one of the cat in my arms whist massaging/stroking one of the dogs with one free hand.


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## Alec Swan (6 March 2015)

alainax said:



			&#8230;&#8230;..

The other day the puppy was in the garden and ran towards the neighbours cat - who quickly showed the pup who is boss.. Pup didn't even get within 6 feet of the cat before backing off. I need to borrow a tough cat 

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When unacceptable behaviour becomes established,  what those who tell us that "They're slowly getting better" fail to grasp,  is the fact that the dog,  whatever the apparent improvements,  continues to please itself.  Your pup learnt,  via next door's cat and just as easily as it can from you,  a lesson and that there are consequences attached to unacceptable behaviour,  and the immediate lesson is one which tends to stay in place!  'Gradually getting better' generally has the criminal regressing!

'Scruffing' a puppy (with perfect timing) and coupled to a load and meaningful dose of 'verbals' will have the same affect as will the cat who simply won't tolerate the pup's lack of manners.  Many years ago there was a 'Station' cat at Keston,  the Met Police Dog School,  and I was assured that for all the hairy-arsed dogs which were occasionally there,  there was never one which failed to learn the lesson of cat dominance!

Alec.


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## Possum (6 March 2015)

alainax said:



			Just wanted to give a wee update on this. 

My sisters dog has came to visit - who loves cats, is gentle and shy towards them. This has gave the cats huge amounts of confidence!

We also taught the cats that the dog isnt any good with heights, so they are now looking at up as well as run for escape routes. 


Finnally.... the puppy. We have increased the row she gets when she chases, a loud barky NO BAD GIRL, swiftly followed by scooping her up and plonking her in her room. She quickly learned this would happen when she chased. The end of the chase is usually the cat gate on the stairs, but now when she heard one of us move she would end the chase and make a b-line for the office! Cleary knowing that what she was doign was going to end her in trouble, but not quite resisting the urge! 

We have done a lot of extensions on her "stay" training. Things like putting a treat beside her, telling her to stay and leaving the room, coming back in, and she still hasn't eaten it. Then letting her eat it as a reward. 

We upped this to getting her in "stay" mode, then throwing the treat so it whizzes right past her, she still stays ( although the look of sheer temptation in her eyes is very cute!), then having her wait until we say its ok to "un stay". We are also doing this when anyone leaves or enters the house, she must stay on the matt, sitting and waiting, until released from the stay command. She seems to find this really easy, hence us trying to adapt it for the cat situation! 

Today, the cat came into the room and we quickly got her to focus on the stay command. She stayed, and never moved a muscle while the cat walked around. The cat then bolted off and she set chase, but when we shouted STAY!!! at her, she stopped chasing! And stayed  Yay!

Little steps, but at least in the right direction! 

So just little steps, but seems to be getting somewhere.
		
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I think that all sounds really positive, it will only get easier as puppy gets older and more chilled.  
Interestingly, we do occasionally have OH's parents' "macho cat" to stay. He won't take any nonsense from the dog and has actually been seen doing the chasing (hilarious to watch) but it didn't really have any effect on our dog's behaviour towards our cat - we had to do that ourselves!


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## Mister Ted (12 March 2015)

Well I have had sucsess with the Ceaser Milan way.My terrier 7yrs rescue hated all cats ,tried all methods have always admired him so took his advice.You really have to make time for it and be consistent.Firstly get someone to hold the cat on their knee and on the other side of the room someone with the dog on a lead on their knee or sitting holding it on the floor.Keeping calm yourselves.As soon as the dog LOOKS at the cat give a firm sharp jab to side lower neck with your fingers and at the same time say NO firmly.Repeat for a session of about 5 or 10 mins daily.Every time the dog lunges or looks at the cat repeat the actions.At some point over the course of two or three weeks you will notice the dog will tremble when he looks at the cat.This is because his mind is struggling to do as you are asking,to overcome what he wants to do which is chase the cat.At all times the cat and dog are held and the cat will be looking at the dog also. I had great results and they both  now friends even sleeping  in the same basket although it only works for our cat.Any other that comes in the garden dog is after like a shot. It takes time and perseverance but we were both at our wits end and wanted them both to get on.It took us about 3 wks.


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## alainax (18 April 2016)

Final update on this... its resolved  

We kept up with her training, and she is now is remarkable in the eyes of family and friend pet dog owners! Listens so well to a multitude of commands, very happy clever girl.

With the cats, it was her training that resolved it. The training was being able to call her to sit, to stay, to come here - no matter what was distracting her. We did this in all sorts of locations, distractions etc - and moving off her spot was not an option.  Soon the cats realised this and began to not run away so much. Soon the cats got braver so she had less opportunities to chase. Now left to their own devices without me giving the dog commands, the cats sort her out. 

Now the 3 of them will sit grudgingly together where ever is most comfy  (more grudgingly on the cats behalf, the dog loves them! Albeit a bit too much for their liking!) 


Thank you everyone for your advice over the time, and for anyone reading with the same issue, it is certainly solvable with a bit of training  

*happy pet owner*


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## JillA (18 April 2016)

Brilliant, well done


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## MotherOfChickens (18 April 2016)

well done-currently training the new rescue to be less erm, enthusiastic around slightly timid young cat-good to know it works!


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## Clodagh (18 April 2016)

Well done!


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## npage123 (18 April 2016)

Brilliant - your perseverance has paid off - well done


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## ElleSkywalker (19 December 2016)

Ressurecting old thread as having a problem with puppy chasing cats. 

I've had 4 pups (one was 4-6 months old) before and the cats just gave them a good beating when they were small and they soon learnt to leave then alone,  even our rescue Saluki plays nicely with cats inside (she's had 2 that were her best friends and she plays with then snuggles up to) she doesn't chase then outside either as shes always on a stretchy lead in garden as it's 1/2 an acre including horses and stables and off lead she's hard to catch. She's fine on big field and on walks off lead. 

So however with this success am a little stumped. Have a 9 weeks old teeny JRT,  she's yips and barks and cats but no one will tell her off,  apart from our dear old cat who she doesn't see that much.  This cat basically taught all other puppies respect for cats and so we have never intervened. This cat is now very old and so don't wish to use her for dog diciplining too much. The other cats either stand like fools letting her try and play with them or run away. In the house she gets a firm no for chasing cats and outside too but she's just been possed by the the devil and chased one on to the road and then when on the road decided to run fast as she can opposite direction leaving me chasing after her with the saluki on a lead in tow. 

Managed to catch her quite easily but it's not the point as she needs to learn not to chase at all. 

So am thinking that our leaving them to it that we've done before is not going to work (other 3 puppies were Labs and an enormous yellow dog all of whom would never dream of chasing a cat inside or outside.) 

So stretchy lead on outside at all times now? So when she goes to chase lock the lead and firm 'no'. Firm no everytime she goes to bark at a cat as well as chase? She was doing very well at recall but is only 9 weeks so will keep up with that and maybe teach leave or something as priority?  

Was hoping she'd be able to stay off lead in garden as we've had her so young but now she's discovered outside world in think she'll be making a break for it at all times  

Ps garden it's self is 1/2 acre so unsecuredable for a dog her size but if necessary a secure pen for her can be built. She's for ratting however so having her in a pen all the time when outside kind of defeats object!


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## alainax (19 December 2016)

How many cats do you have? We didn't have a cat who was brave enough to tell the pup off initially, but in the end the training of the pup enabled the cat to become braver. Now the cat happily tells her off, and the pup ( now 2yo) wont chase cats outside either as has a respect for them. 

The "no" didn't really help with our pup. What worked was having a really strong sit/stay established. She had to get used to sitting and staying even when cats were around, and cats got used to her not always chasing. It did take a while, but now they all live happily together. She still pushed her luck getting into the cats personal space, but gets a bop to the head from them. The sit stay is now established as a come here, sit, stay - which works really well when you are trying to stop her from running under a tractor!


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## ElleSkywalker (19 December 2016)

Alainax I have 7 cats,  2 are semi feral and about 6 mon the old, these are the ones she tries to play with and they won't tell her off. They play happily with the Saluki. 4 cats have been bought up with dogs and have no fear but just can't be bothered the tell her off so bring away, and the other cat even in won't mess with but is now very old so don't want her upsetting really.

Have just got her a tiny harness and some treats for training but the puppy is small she can't have many!


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